The celebration after the fast of Ramadan

Naqiyah Mayat’s second cookbook, ‘The Journey’, celebrates the preservation of the art of Indian cooking. Hilary Biller spoke to her about Ramadan and the imminent Eid festival

Author Image

Hilary Biller

Chana Magaj and other sweetmeats. (Naqiyah, The Journey Honouring Indian Culinary Traditions)

Where did your personal food journey begin? How did it evolve?

Like many South African creators of Indian descent, my childhood revolved around food. Not just cooking and eating it, but the stories; how recipes came about, who they came from — and the memories stitched into every dish.

I spent my childhood perched on the kitchen countertops beside my mum and late gran, not to learn or even to help much. I just watched, surrounded by women whose deepest reverence was to nurture their families through food. Cooking was an act of love. It was service and identity.

Naqiyah, The Journey: Honouring Indian Culinary Traditions (Naqiyah, The Journey Honouring Indian Culinary Traditions)

The holy month of Ramadan observed by Muslims is a period of fasting, prayer, reflection and community. How does a foodie social influencer whose life revolves around cooking, testing and sharing recipes manage this transition?

The month is rooted in devotion; to faith and to my family. While my work revolves around food, Ramadan reframes it entirely. Cooking is no longer about testing or perfecting: it becomes an act of intention and worship. Staying creative allows me to merge my professional identity with my spiritual one. While I may be known for food, Ramadan reminds me why I cook: to serve, to nurture, and to bring the people I love around one table.

Apart from breaking the fast in the traditional way, what do you prepare for your family?

We break our fast with Zamzam water (a revered sacred water from a well in Mecca) and dates, which sets the tone for the evening. I prepare a light canapé to ease us into the meal. We enjoy bhajias or pakoras, Indian-style fritters to butter chicken naan and mutton mince samoosas. Our iftar table reflects recipes from both my cookbooks.

As a much-loved social media food influencer, what are two of your favourite energy-boosting foods to prepare for your family?

The sehri smoothie from my latest book is a pre-fasting drink at home. It’s nourishing, sustaining and balanced for long-fasting hours. I prep smoothie bags in advance and store them in the freezer, then leave one out the evening before to defrost. I alternate the type of milk and sometimes add an espresso shot for that gentle caffeine boost.

My At-Home Egg McMuffins are my twin boys’ favourite. It’s my interpretation of the McDonald’s version — filling, comforting food packed with protein to sustain them through the day.

Another favourite is butter chicken with garlic naan, a great prepare-ahead dish. I double the quantity of the naan yeast dough to freeze. Once baked, it’s drizzled with coriander butter.

Which recipe reminds you of the spirit of Ramadan?

We gravitate to food that reminds us of gathering at the table at sunset to pray and break the fast together. My recipe for mutton samoosas signifies the month of fasting. I make them and pack them in freezer bags in advance to use during the month.

The festival of Eid al-Fitr is about indulgent, celebratory foods that mark the end of Ramadan. Which dish is a celebration tradition?

The leg of lamb roast has garnered a reputation as the quintessential celebratory meal on Eid day. Without disturbing the ebb and flow of our cultural heritage, I created a masala butterflied leg of lamb. This ceremonial dish is prepared by infusing it with spices, leaving it to soak up the glorious fragrances and flavour. It’s cooked over low heat until the meat falls off the bone.

In The Journey, a chapter is devoted to non-alcoholic drinks. Celebrating Eid, is there one that stands out?

The flavours and fragrances of Eid day have an emotional connection; a nostalgic tie. In my Chai-Spiced Citrus Bloom recipe I capture these fragrances in a drink and present the ideal cooler for the Eid lunch table to serve alongside the masala butterflied leg of lamb and other dishes.

What’s your essential kitchen gadget during Ramadan and Eid?

A blender or food processor reduces preparation time by quickly chopping onions, blending haleem (a nourishing stew/soup made with wheat or barley and lamb or mutton), and processing marinades. I appreciate my stand mixer, especially for doughs. It makes suhoor and iftar preparation smoother and more manageable.

Masala butterflied leg of lamb (Naqiyah, The Journey Honouring Indian Culinary raditions)

MASALA BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS:

  • 2 kg leg of lamb, deboned and butterflied

Brine (you need more than 36 hours to prepare the meat)

  • Enough water to cover the lamb
  • 30ml (2 tbsp) black peppercorns
  • 4 onions, cut into chunks
  • 60ml (¼ cup) salt
  • 10 cloves of garlic
  • A few sprigs of thyme

Marinade

  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • 15ml (1 tbsp) crushed garlic
  • 5–7 fresh green chillies
  • 4 dried red chillies
  • 60ml (¼ cup) vinegar
  • 500ml (2 cups) plain yoghurt
  • 250ml (1 cup) ghee
  • 10ml (2 tsp) EACH chilli powder, onion powder, cumin powder and coriander powder
  • 5ml (1 tsp) EACH turmeric powder, fine black pepper and dried mixed herbs
  • A pinch of red or yellow powdered food colouring
  • 5ml (1 tsp) garam masala
  • 10ml (2 tsp) salt

METHOD:

  1. For the brine bring all the ingredients to a boil in a large pot over high heat, then remove from the heat and cool completely.
  2. Once cold, place the lamb into the liquid, fully submerging it.
  3. Immediately place the pot into the fridge and leave covered for 12–24 hours.
  4. After 12–24 hours, remove from the fridge.
  5. Discard the brine and pat the lamb dry using paper towel.
  6. Bring the meat to room temperature.
  7. Cut slits into the lamb. This will help the marinade seep into the meat.
  8. Place the lamb into an ovenproof dish (if you are roasting in the oven), alternatively into a glass dish if you prefer to cook it on the braai (see Note). The marinade may now be rubbed over and ready to grill.
  9. For the marinade, rub the lemon juice and garlic all over the lamb, being sure to get deep into the slits.
  10. In a food processor, grind the fresh green chillies and dried red chillies with the vinegar to make a paste.
  11. Rub the chilli paste into the slits and all over the lamb.
  12. Make a paste with the balance of the marinade ingredients, then rub it all over the lamb, coating well.
  13. Leave in the fridge for a minimum of 4 hours, but up to 24 hours if time permits.
  14. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C for 3½ hours without opening.
  15. Being careful, open the foil away from your hands and face.
  16. Leave the meat uncovered and baste with the reserved marinade. Turn the oven to grill for 30 minutes, being careful not to let the meat burn. A light crust should form over the lamb.
  17. Remove gently and serve on a platter with chosen accompanying dishes.

Note: If you prefer to braai the lamb instead of doing it in the oven, braai over medium coals for a minimum of 20 minutes, turning a few times until cooked through to your liking.

Butter chicken naan (Naqiyah, The Journey Honouring Indian Culinary Traditions)

BUTTER CHICKEN NAAN

SERVES 8

INGREDIENTS:

Dough

  • 625ml (2½ cups) cake wheat flour
  • 5ml (1 tsp) sugar
  • 2.5ml (½ tsp) salt
  • 10ml (2 tsp) instant dried yeast
  • 125ml (½ cup) warm milk
  • 1 egg
  • 125ml (½ cup) EACH of warm water and sunflower oil

Filling

  • At least 300g leftover butter chicken, more chicken than gravy
  • 5ml (1 tsp) EACH cumin and chilli powder
  • 5ml (1 tsp) dried mixed herbs
  • 2.5ml (½ tsp) fine black pepper
  • 5ml (1 tsp) EACH onion powder, red chilli flakes and salt
  • 1 small red onion, finely chopped
  • 30ml (2 tbsp) EACH chopped fresh coriander and chopped spring onion
  • 1 tbsp Green Masala Paste or 2 fresh green chillies, finely chopped

Topping

  • 1 egg, beaten
  • sesame seeds to sprinkle
  • 100g butter, melted
  • pinch of salt
  • 2.5ml (½ tsp) red chilli flakes
  • 15ml (1 tbsp) finely chopped fresh coriander

METHOD:

  1. For the dough, place the flour, sugar, salt and yeast into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook.
  2. In a separate bowl or jug, mix the milk, egg, water and oil, then pour gently into the flour mixture.
  3. Mix until a slightly sticky dough has formed.
  4. Place the dough into a lightly oiled bowl and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour.
  5. For the filling, gently shred the butter chicken and mix it into the gravy.
  6. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.
  7. For the dough, divide it into equal portions.
  8. Roll out each portion on a floured surface until the dough is the size of a saucer.
  9. Spoon about 2 tbsp of filling mixture into the middle of each portion, and bring the sides to the centre (like you would with a dumpling), pressing down so that the filling is sealed inside.
  10. Gently roll out again on a floured surface, using a rolling pin, and place onto an oven tray lined with baking paper.
  11. Lightly brush with the beaten egg and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
  12. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C for 8–10 minutes, then switch to grill and leave in for a further 4 minutes.
  13. For the topping, mix the melted butter with the salt, red chilli flakes and chopped fresh coriander. Remove the breads from the oven and lightly brush with the butter mixture.
  14. Serve warm as is, or with chutney on the side.
Chana Magaj (Naqiyah, The Journey Honouring Indian Culinary Traditions)

CHANA MAGAJ

Prepared over festivities, Chana Magaj may be considered the jewel of Indian sweetmeats. It’s a rewarding experience being able to prepare and master this particular sweetmeat; it’s as much about the process as the result.

MAKES 12–24

INGREDIENTS:

  • 500 g chana (chickpea or gram) flour
  • 60ml (¼ cup) fresh milk
  • 750ml (3 cups) ghee
  • 250ml (1 cup) nibbed almonds with the skin on
  • 5ml (1 tsp) EACH cardamom powder and vanilla essence
  • 1 packet (500g) Klim instant milk powder
  • 1 packet (500g) icing sugar
  • Toasted slivered almonds and edible gold leaf to decorate

METHOD:

  1. In a bowl, rub the chana flour with the milk until it resembles breadcrumbs.
  2. Melt the ghee in a thick-based pot over medium heat.
  3. Add the flour and, using a spatula, mix well.
  4. Lower the heat and cook for 10 minutes, stirring continuously to avoid burning. The mixture should begin to turn a light, golden-brown colour.
  5. Add the nibbed almonds and cook over gentle heat until it turns golden-brown in colour — it can burn easily at this stage, so keep an eye on it. You will notice the ghee rising to the surface — this stage takes up to 30 minutes over low and consistent heat.
  6. Remove from the heat and give it a final stir to avoid any of the ingredients settling and discolouring from the residual heat. Empty this mixture into a large bowl and let it cool completely before proceeding.
  7. Add the cardamom powder and vanilla essence and mix well.
  8. Add 400g of the milk powder and mix well.
  9. Add 400g of the icing sugar and mix well. The mixture will start to appear ‘tacky’.
  10. Knead the mixture by hand as it comes together and feels soft to the touch.
  11. If required, add the balance of the milk powder and icing sugar while continuing to knead until you have a soft, biscuit-feel to the dough.
  12. Using an ice-cream scoop, shape into equal-sized balls.
  13. Decorate with toasted slivered almonds and edible gold leaf, and store in an airtight container.