Bodies change. It’s a simple truth — but one fashion hasn’t always made room for. At South African Fashion Week (SAFW) Spring-Summer 2026 (SS26), though, there was a noticeable shift in mood: less about rigid ideas of fit, and more about adaptability. Designers leaned into pieces that move with the wearer, with garments that expand, adjust, detach, and reconfigure.
Black Coffee
For Jacques van der Watt of Black Coffee, design felt like an ongoing conversation, with each collection building on what came before. In his Spring-Summer 2026 offering, Off-Grid, the designer worked from a square grid, using pleats, pin tucks and panelling as tools of adaptability.
Known for a neutral palette, this season opened up into something warmer with yellows, tangerine and earthy browns sitting alongside his signature black and white. Proportion and volume still anchored the collection with organic yet angular silhouettes through structured quilting, dense pleating, and sculptural layering while oversized puffed sleeves and cascading ruffles brought a sense of movement.
Designers leaned into pieces that move with the wearer, with garments that expand, adjust, detach, and reconfigure.
How does this collection reflect where you are personally and creatively?
It felt a little bit like a homecoming. I [drew] from traditional Black Coffee finishes that are almost historic for me, signature things that I’ve not used in a while like pintucks, and I even used some patterns from the past that I reworked in a fresh way.
It’s my first Fashion Week collection that I made from the [new] store, so that was quite special. I’m in a good place and the collection went very smoothly, so I think it does reflect my state of mind.
Were there any elements, silhouettes, construction techniques that were new or that really challenged you this season?
The gradient proved to be way more challenging than I felt it would be. As a sustainable designer, the fabric sourcing is hectic, but normally you make a collection and you can [mix and match]. That was out the door, so the minute you didn’t like something, you just had to change it. Then, also reining things in. I actually bought a green piece of fabric, but then I thought, “No, I’m not going to show green.” I didn’t want to dye all the fabrics, so I set myself a challenge to find it, which can be a bit hard in Johannesburg if you want everything natural.
Helon Melon
At Helon Melon, texture and surface detail took centre stage. The Cape Town-based label’s Spring-Summer 2026 showcase shifted between structure and ease, pairing workwear references with a relaxed, hyper-feminine sensibility. Athleisure elements were softened by fluid silhouettes, including long bubble skirts, slouching harem trousers and a renewed take on the classic button-up shirt. The shirt became a clear focal point, reworked through ruffles, ties and patchwork-like pockets while Mohair proved surprisingly versatile, appearing across biker jackets, cardigans, shorts and accessories.
What is the central idea or emotion behind this collection, and where did that spring from?
The emotional core of this collection is absolute happiness. A number of years ago, I was diagnosed with cancer, and I spent a long period in recovery through chemotherapy and radiation. During that time, I made a promise to myself and my team that when we returned, we would do so brightly, joyfully, and with a real sense of renewal. I believe this collection captures exactly that spirit.
Were there any elements in this collection that pushed you out of your comfort zone?
The starting point for this season was the mohair we had woven in the Eastern Cape, but what pushed me most was the colour. I typically work with a very restrained palette, so introducing orange, yellow, and other more vivid tones into the tartan was a deliberate departure for me. It felt bold, but also necessary. We also worked with a combination of locally woven mohair and fabrics sourced internationally, and that dialogue was incredibly rewarding.
SinCHUI
For Cape Town-based designer Robyn Agulhas of SinCHUI, the Spring-Summer 2026 collection unfolded as a tribute to South African summer and the layered soundscape that shapes it. Opening to the energy of Boom Shaka, “workwear made street” guided the collection. Casual staples were reworked into sharper silhouettes, with sweatpants giving way to pleated, baggy trousers that still held their shape, and oversized forms balanced by architectural panelling and undone cuffs. As the show progressed, modular details came to the fore through oversized pockets, toggle-string hoods, and softly structured shorts, all pointing to garments designed to shift with the wearer.
What has been the biggest challenge in getting this collection to the runway?
Time and execution at scale. Translating an idea into a full runway offering always comes with pressure, which I really enjoyed with this collection. Another challenge is maintaining the integrity of the vision throughout that process. It’s easy for details to get lost under pressure, so it becomes about staying anchored in the original intention while still being adaptable. That balance is always the real test.
Is modular design a conscious design principle for you?
It’s not always overt, but it is a conscious consideration. I’m interested in garments that extend beyond a single moment, pieces that can shift depending on how they’re worn or styled. So, while the collection is presented in a specific narrative on the runway, there’s an underlying intention for versatility and longevity within the pieces.
Undefined Outdoor Clothing
As part of the Scouting Menswear lineup, emerging designer Kingsley Baloyi presented the Spring-Summer 2026 collection for Undefined Outdoor Clothing. The collection was grounded in utility but shaped through thoughtful construction and adaptability. A faux leather two-piece, made up of a sharply cut blazer and matching trousers, was elevated through padded-panel inserts and silver press-snap detailing — while a light grey tracksuit introduced a more controlled, almost concealed silhouette with a cape-like overlay and integrated hood that revealed only the eyes and wrists. Finished in a restrained palette of greys, blacks and creams, familiar outerwear styles were reworked with exposed zippers, oversized utility pockets, toggles and padded sections.
How does this collection reflect where you are personally and creatively right now?
This collection reflects a moment of growth and expansion for me. Personally, I’m in a space where I’m pushing myself beyond what feels familiar, and creatively that translated into exploring new territories within the brand’s DNA. I wanted to take the core elements that define the brand and spread them across different aspects of style. It reflects a designer who is evolving and allowing his language to mature.
Are there any adjustable or adaptive design elements in this collection and what prompted you to include them?
Yes, those elements are very intentional in the collection. Drawstrings, ties, and adjustable details were included not only for function but also to reinforce the idea of transformation. Since the collection explores elevation and diversity in style, I wanted the garments to allow movement and adaptability. These details create flexibility in fit and silhouette while staying true to the utility and outdoor-inspired roots of the brand.
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