Petra doesn’t just impress — it stuns. Nothing prepares you for the moment the Treasury — Petra’s most famous monument, a towering sandstone façade carved by the Nabataeans in the 1st century BCE — reveals itself from between the narrow canyon walls of the Siq, the ancient city’s winding sandstone gorge that serves as its dramatic entrance.
In normal years, this wonder of the ancient world feels less like a forgotten city and more like a bustling fairground, packed shoulder to shoulder with tour groups, selfie sticks and the hawkers who follow them. But in 2025, something extraordinary is happening: Jordan’s iconic sites stand, for the first time in living memory, largely empty. It feels unreal — akin to having the Sistine Chapel all to yourself.
Regional tensions have kept the usual crowds away. Yet paradoxically, this has created a window — fragile and finite — for the intrepid traveller to experience the majesty of Jordan without the throngs. The mood among Jordanians is one of quiet resilience and heartfelt welcome, a reminder that the Middle East is never just its headlines — and that beyond them lies an extraordinary richness waiting to be seen.
From the capital, Amman — a modern city threaded with Roman ruins and lively cafés — to the ancient city of Petra and the Martian landscapes of Wadi Rum, Jordan remains welcoming, hospitable and astonishingly safe. Hotels and guesthouses have space to spare. Locals, whose livelihoods depend on tourism, go out of their way to reassure and to share stories over cardamom-scented coffee.
Amman: Ancient stones, modern soul (2 nights)
From the vantage point atop Jabal al-Qala’a, the ancient Roman Citadel, Jordan’s capital sprawls across the seven hills in a tapestry of stone buildings, narrow alleys and domed mosques stretching from the old core into the bustling city beyond. It is a city of contrasts: modern avenues alive with cars and cafés alongside ruins that whisper of millennia.
The best place to begin exploring is downtown’s Rainbow Street. Locals wrapped in colourful scarves linger over mint tea, while artisans display handwoven rugs, silver jewellery and bright ceramics. As night falls, lanterns glow and rooftop restaurants serve fragrant local dishes against the backdrop of the city’s softly lit hills.
The next morning, strong coffee paired with knafeh – a warm, honey-soaked pastry – makes an ideal start before stepping deeper into Amman’s historic core. At the Citadel, the massive, weathered stones of the Temple of Hercules still command the skyline. Nearby, the ruins of the Umayyad Palace hold traces of the wealth and artistry of early Islamic dynasties. Just below, the Roman Theatre carved in the hillside remains a powerful reminder of the city’s enduring story.
A short walk away, the Jordan Museum ties these ancient threads together. Here fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls sit quietly beside the 9,000-year-old statues of ‘Ain Ghazal, — among the world’s oldest known human figures, discovered on the outskirts of Amman in 1983.
Petra: Ancient capital of the Nabateans (3 nights)
From Amman, the road south follows the King’s Highway, passing the 12th-century crusader fortress of Karak before descending into Wadi Musa. More of a working town than a polished tourist hub, Wadi Musa is a mix of stone houses, cafés and family-run stores that gaze across an otherworldly panorama of rugged sandstone hills carved into ripples and folds, like a sea turned to stone. Within them lies Petra, capital of the ancient Nabateans and a vital stop on the trading routes that once linked Mesopotamia, Egypt and beyond.
While the Treasury — made famous by Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade — is Petra’s most iconic sight, the ancient city spans over 60km² of tombs, temples, Roman streets, rock-cut stairs and Byzantine churches. It’s a place best explored slowly, over a few days, to grasp its vastness and depth. For those willing to climb, a steep path (or a donkey ride with a local Bedouin guide) leads to the monastery, Ad-Deir — massive, silent and, for some, even more awe-inspiring than the Treasury itself.
The Mövenpick Resort Petra, situated right across from the main entrance, is a great base from which to explore the ancient city. In the evening, return to the hotel for a rooftop drink, or wander into Wadi Musa for a more local experience. At Old Street Café, try lamb mansaf or smoky aubergine moutabal. Nearby, My Mom’s Recipe Restaurant serves home-style dishes such as stuffed vine leaves and Fattoush salad.
Wadi Rum: Where landscape becomes legend (3 nights)
A relaxed two-hour drive southeast of Petra, passing desert plains, mountain passes and olive groves, lies the frontier town of Wadi Rum. Home to about 2,000 Zalabieh Bedouins, it is set between the towering peaks of Jebel Rum and Jebel Um Ashreen.
Often called “Mars on Earth,” Wadi Rum lives up to its nickname. Its sculpted sandstone cliffs, red dunes and surreal rock formations — a Unesco World Heritage Site — have starred in Lawrence of Arabia, The Martian, Dune and Star Wars. The landscape feels cinematic and vast.
The area offers a range of desert camps, from luxurious to traditional. Widely spaced and positioned in spectacular locations these camps have sweeping views of the Hismā Desert that stretches onward into northern Saudi Arabia.
The guides here are Bedouin, with an ancestry that stretches back for centuries. With a storytelling ease and an instinctive feel for the land, they bring the landscape to life – not just through history and legend, but through humour, warmth and an instinctive understanding of every dune, canyon and petroglyph. The latter are rock carvings etched by ancient desert dwellers, some dating as far back as 12,000 years. On guided day tours, expect to be led across Martian valleys and sunlit cliffs, pausing at ancient rock carvings, Lawrence’s Spring, crimson dunes and the graceful Um Fruth Rock Bridge.
Lunches are served casually in shaded canyons or at spectacular viewpoints: bread, olives, hummus and tea served on a Persian carpet. Herds of camels wander close enough to snatch flatbread from a careless hand. Back at camp, and as evening comes, the desert light shifts to gold, then violet. A dinner of Zarb – spiced meat and vegetables slow-cooked in an underground pit – is served around a roaring fire, where stories of nomadic life blur the line between past and present.
The Dead Sea: salt and silence (2 nights)
Finally, the road turns north toward the Dead Sea. The land falls away to the lowest point on Earth, revealing a wide stretch of water so salty it cannot sustain life — and so buoyant it effortlessly lifts the human body.
The sea is starkly beautiful: pale-blue water edged with white salt crystals, limestone hills rising beyond. Floating in its warm, mineral-rich water is both strange and calming: the body suspended, the mind drifting.
Staying at one of the seaside resorts offers quiet comfort — most of them are clustered together along the same stretch of shoreline and all offer a lovely experience, depending on budget. Think terraces shaded by palms, pools edged with stone, and long views westward as the sun sets in bands of gold and pink.
Here, at the end of a journey shaped by rock and sand, by temples and open roads, the stillness of the Dead Sea offers space to reflect — not just on what has been seen, but on the timelessness of this land itself and the challenges that lie ahead.
NEED TO KNOW:
Getting there: Flights from South Africa to Amman are available via Qatar Airways, Emirates and Ethiopian Airlines with connections in Doha, Dubai or Addis Ababa.
When to go: Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) bring ideal weather — warm days, cool nights and clear skies.
Getting around: There are many reputable car-hire agencies at Amman’s Queen Alia International Airport. With excellent roads, clear signage, and modern infrastructure, it’s remarkably straightforward to hire a car at Amman International Airport and set off with confidence — even for those unaccustomed to Middle Eastern travel.
Where to stay: The writer stayed at the Mövenpick Resort Petra in Wadi Musa; the Arabian Nights Camp in Wadi Rum; and the Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea. See movenpick.accor.com and arabiannightsrum.com.
Visas: South Africans can obtain a visa on arrival for about 40 JOD (around R1 060). Alternatively, receive a free visa on arrival by purchasing a Jordan Pass – an official sightseeing and entry package designed to make travel easier (and cheaper) for tourists. To qualify for the visa waiver, you must purchase the pass before arrival and stay at least three nights. It costs between 70 – 80 JOD (about R1 860 – R2 130), depending on the number of days. See jordanpass.jo.
Safety: Despite regional conflict, Jordan itself remains peaceful and safe, with robust security and hospitable people.
Currency: Jordan’s official currency is the dinar. Cash is the norm in markets, taxis and rural areas, though credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and larger shops.
Dress code: Jordan is notably accepting of modern women, with many locals embracing contemporary styles alongside traditional dress. While modesty is appreciated—especially in religious or conservative areas—women can generally feel comfortable wearing Western clothing.
MICRO: 5 Must-try foods
Mansaf: The national dish – lamb cooked in a rich, tangy yoghurt sauce, garnished with almonds and pine nuts, served with rice and flatbread.
Warak Enab: Tender grape leaves stuffed with rice, minced meat, herbs and spices, slow-cooked with lemon juice and olive oil.
Ful Medames: A traditional breakfast made from slow-cooked fava beans, mashed and seasoned with olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, and cumin. Topped with chopped parsley, tomatoes, onions and a drizzle of tahini.
Knafeh: A sweet, cheese-filled pastry soaked in sugar syrup and topped with crushed pistachios.
Maqluba: Meaning “upside down” in Arabic – a savoury rice dish made with chicken or lamb, vegetables and spices cooked in a pot, then flipped over to serve.
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