The last fashion show I attended — before the pandemic — was much the same: paper-thin models squeezed into tiny haute couture that only looks good on a Barbie’s size-zero frame.
More than two years later, and with lockdown the perfect time to reconstruct the industry, most fashion designers are still producing outfits for tall, thin women who have fewer curves than N1 from Gauteng to Limpopo, a dead-straight run.
Enter designer Malesela "Ouma" Tema, 37, a Phalaborwa native who specialises in clothing for more voluptuous women. She established Plus Fab in 2011 after becoming frustrated with designers not catering to her fuller figure. She her began designing in her garage, selling her wares from the boot of her car. Now she has a factory and outlets in 10 malls countrywide.
“I wanted to be the change I wanted to see in the industry as I realised I couldn't force people to see things the way I do,” Tema says.
Since establishing her business, the number of design options for plus-sized women has increased. However, it's not enough in a world where the average woman’s dress size has increased from 16 to 18, according to a 2020 Boston University School of Medicine study.
“Major retailers are still hesitant to stock plus-sized fashion and aren't as willing to explore this market as much as they do others. Even more concerning are the psychological effects of not being catered for. As with any human being, it's discouraging not to get what you want. We're not a different breed and it is disappointing to be treated differently,” says the designer.
This year marks 15 since Evolution was released, a film addressing image manipulation in the advertising industry. It is discriminatory practices such as these by designers, fashion buyers, retailers and society that leave women feeling inadequate.
“People also think plus-size fashion is merely a size thing. It's not. It's about acknowledging plus-size ladies’ frames and designing for them. It's about accentuating the parts of the bodies we want to show-off and to be discreet on the rest.
"Generally, our waists are a bit higher and we also have different length requirements. I create garments from a fashion sense, not a size perspective, hence our slogan, ‘Not just the right size’,” she says.
Tema has no formal training, her success is fuelled by passion and filling a gap that unfortunately still exists. What she does is to take every opportunity to learn.
“I entered the 2021 Engen Pitch & Polish competition and my lack of training became apparent as the judges highlighted how I did not know how much stock I had, how much my materials and other products cost, and how much profit I was generating. But after a comprehensive mentorship programme I ended up coming third."
For more information on Tema’s range, visit www.plus-fab.com. For more on the annual Engen Pitch & Polish competition, in which 16 entrepreneurs vie for a R1m first prize and advice from esteemed entrepreneurs, visit www.pitchandpolish.com
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