SA's teenage A-Squad dancers go high-fashion

Rati Makaleng, 17, had never worn makeup before she took part in a “secret” fashion shoot with South African designer Gert-Johan Coetzee at the Union Buildings.

The vision-impaired schoolgirl, who has albinism, has never worried much about cosmetics and appearance. Gently fluttering her gold-dusted lashes and smiling broadly after having her hair and makeup professionally done, she admitted: “I had absolutely no idea I could ever look like this. I mean this is really me.”

Makaleng is one of the 10-member A-Squad dance crew approached by the world-renowned designer to model his latest collection, which will be revealed on the red carpet tonight at London Fashion Week. The teenage members are all still at school, and all of them have albinism.

London Fashion Week is one of the “Big Four” global fashion weeks alongside Milan, Paris and New York. Coetzee was included by British Nigerian entrepreneur Ayobami Animashaun, founder and lead curator at Vanity Hub in London where she has been working towards transforming and gaining recognition for the African luxury and high fashion industry.

“I was approached by Lady Ayobami and immediately said yes. Then I approached Brand South Africa, and they agreed to come on board as sponsors as there was just no way I could afford to ship the entire collection over safely for the event,” Coetzee told the Sunday Times at the photo shoot to capture images of the designs ahead of the big reveal.

In his efforts to do more than simply photograph his designs, Coetzee wanted to raise awareness of albinism.

It’s my aim to raise awareness for inclusivity of the people who don’t fit in. It’s only now that communities that were once shunned are becoming normalised. As a gay, white, Afrikaans man I like going all out to make a bit of noise for the people who are not always included by society, by highlighting their uniqueness
— Gert-Johan at London Fashion Week

“I came across the A-Squad on social media, and I just loved them and their energy and ability to bring life to everything. I figured they would be the ideal models for this project, so I got in contact and they were excited to work with me,” said Coetzee.

“It’s my aim to raise awareness for inclusivity of the people who don’t fit in. It’s only now that communities that were once shunned are becoming normalised. As a gay, white, Afrikaans man I like going all out to make a bit of noise for the people who are not always included by society, by highlighting their uniqueness.”

His quest to find the ideal location led him to the Union Buildings in Pretoria — the site of pivotal events in South African history, including the inauguration of Nelson Mandela as the country’s first democratically elected president.

“It’s a landmark with majestic architecture and rich history, and a symbol of unity and the enduring spirit of South Africa.”

For many of the dancers it was the first time they had worn makeup, walked in heels, had their nails done or been asked to model. Yet each rose to the occasion, performing like professionals.

The informal dance crew, who come from various schools in Johannesburg, have 259,000 followers on TikTok, where they post videos of their dance routines.

“They're unbelievable. It's incredible how they just know exactly how to stand and what to do. I don't know if it's confidence from dancing, but they're absolute naturals,” photographer Luke Tannous told the Sunday Times.

Makaleng said she felt “extravagant”.

“I love how this hair goes with my skin. At one point I was nobody, and now I am here and this is me.”

Mamello Motsamei, 18, the only male in the group, was styled top to toe in a creation made of hundreds of cowrie shells woven into a design weighing more than 20kg.

“I’m a bit overwhelmed, but very excited,” he said, joining the others as they posed and shifted as directed.

Under Tannous’s instructions the group moved, swayed and danced freely as he shot stills and videos of them in action. At the end of each session they would collapse into giggles, falling on the floor, anxious to take off their heels and massage their tight muscles without ruining their hair and makeup.

Coetzee said the images from the photo shoot would be used on his website.

“The pictures are stunning, and we get a lot of queries from magazines and fashion houses and so I let them use them for free — so the pictures get to live on all over the world. It's a creation of art for the world,” he said.

Several years ago Coetzee used Thando Hopa, who has albinism, in one of his shoots, which proved to be a springboard to supermodel fame.

“So using the A-Squad in a shoot like this is a way of saying 'I believe in you', and it gets their profile even more out there and who knows what could flow out of that.”