There’s no denying the fashion industry has taken a knock due to the Covid-19 pandemic, but the globe spending lockdown in sweatpants hasn’t dulled local designers’ creativity.
A world inhibited by video calls is in dire need of optimistic escapism, and that’s exactly what the menswear shows at SA Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022 provided.
The menswear collections were boundary-pushing and innovative. The runways throbbed with pops of colour and sustainability was celebrated by many designers.
Here are six of the standout shows:
VANKLAN
Sustainability was the name of the game for the finalists of SA Fashion Week’s Scouting Menswear Competition, who were challenged to transform “textile waste” into covetable collections.
The winner, Vanklan’s Alexandra van Heerden, showed eclectic outfits that reflect the dynamism and diversity of SA in their bold colours and brave mix of textiles.
The 23-year-old designer said: “I like to give a boys-boys sort of look, like streetwear, but I will also give touches of softness and retro feels, like soft florals, tea towels and linens, but still with an edge. My designs are definitely gender-fluid.
“I think menswear, in terms of sustainability, needs to be broadened, which is what my use of artificial flowers represents. If you deplete natural resources, you’ll be forced to use synthetics, which is incomparable to the natural product.”
SAINT VUYO
Thulani Vuyo Mlambo, one of the runners-up in the Scouting Menswear Competition, established his brand, Saint Vuyo, in 2020.
Mlambo reflects on masculinity and his experiences with bullying as he talks about the inspiration behind “Boytjie”, his collection for the Scouting Menswear Competition.
“I’ve always wanted to create a school uniform-inspired range because I feel schools are institutions of inherent teachings of gender and I wanted to question that.
“This collection was inspired by dark melancholic nostalgia. There’s this deep nostalgia trending in fashion, particularly school uniforms. There is less focus on gender and more focus on silhouettes, colour and fabric choice.”
MARQUIN SAMSON
“Streetwear coupled with industrial glam” is how Marquin Samson, another runner- up in the Scouting Menswear Competition, describes the collection he showed under his eponymous label.
Titled “The Resilient”, it was inspired by the strength and endurance of construction workers. Samson used materials reminiscent of their trade in the construction of his garments, including upcycled denim and metals such as aluminium, which were combined with silver fabrics repurposed from matric dance gowns for a touch of glamour.
ARTHO EKSTEEN
Artho Eksteen’s namesake brand is heavily influenced by textiles, art and history. He showed a maximalist collection inspired by surrealism and the post-Impressionist movement of Fauvism.
“I take the classical idea of menswear — collared shirts, coats and more tailored pieces — but then deconstruct and put a twist on them. Most of [the collection] features traditional textiles such as silk and linen, but I used these refined classic things in an unconventional and offbeat way,” Eksteen explained.
ALC MAN
ALC Man, the menswear label of local fashion heavyweight Amanda Laird Cherry, embraced the Japanese art of sashiko, a form of needlework that is used to flaunt flaws by visibly mending damaged clothing in a decorative way.
Old garments were dismantled to create new textiles or “parts” for the looks in the collection, which was a masterclass in layering.
XAVIER SADAN
Michael Peter Reid of Xavier Sadan joined forces with Italian designer Domenico Orefice to create a collection for “Fashion Bridges — I Ponti della Moda”, an initiative that aims to foster co-operation between the Italian and SA fashion industries.
The collection, though rooted in menswear, explores both soft masculinity and strong femininity.
Reid said: “The man I am designing for in the modern context is not necessarily a man at all. My garments appeal to people who have a certain outlook on life, on design, and that transcends any gender, race or cultural background. I have felt like an outsider for so long, so I enjoy reaching out to people with my clothes to give them a sense of belonging.”
• This article is adapted from one originally published in the print edition of Sunday Times Lifestyle.
