LARA KLAWIKOSKI
Her designs are are known for their soft, ethereal quality and innovative designs and materials. Sustainability and innovation are not just gimmicks to her - she has even designed bridal wear from recycled, biodegradable materials.
Your designs?
I create bespoke womenswear from recycled and upcycled materials. Since I was a student, I’ve loved using unusual, unexpected materials - transforming them into wearable materials for clothes. At first, my designs were extremely avant-garde and I wanted to use fabrics no-one else would think of using. I designed with things like the inner tubing of old truck tyres, bicycle tyres, melted ice-cream cups, dishwashing sponges, earbuds, etc. But through years of experimentation and maturity as a designer, the recycled panels I now create for clothes are wearable, comfortable, durable, machine-washable and I’m able to use the textiles in ready-to-wear garments. I also focus more on using industry waste, like recycled plastics and fabric off-cuts for the textiles I create and make a conscious effort to be more eco-friendly.
What do you love about designing?
The constant creativity, innovation and infinite possibilities.
When did you win the Twyg award and what did it mean to you?
I won the Twyg Innovative Design & Materials award and the Twyg x Country Road Changemaker award in 2020. As an independent designer with a small business, it meant a lot to have my work recognised by Twyg, the leading magazine in sustainable fashion design in South Africa, and by Country Road, an international fashion retail giant.
How has focusing on sustainable practices informed your creative process?
Sustainable practices have made my work more creative, thought-provoking, distinct and experimental and progressive. Materials are always the starting point for my designs. With recycled blends I create that variation in texture and structure, which makes design potential is exciting. Aesthetics are the crux in fashion but creating garments that also help curb the amount of unnecessary waste headed to landfill, simply by rethinking how the waste can be transformed into wearable materials makes my work more meaningful.
Did winning the Twyg award have a positive effect on your career?
Yes, it was amazing exposure for my work. Even though I'd been designing for 10 years, only a niche group in South Africa knew about me and the Twyg awards put me on the map. The interest in what and how I design soared. I was featured in various publications, on podcasts, and in many student projects and master's degree theses.
What projects have you been involved in since winning the award?
I was invited to showcase a collection at the SAFW virtual shows in 2021, I started stocking at Plain Tiger, a sustainable slow-fashion online platform, and Merchants on Long, an African concept store. I designed collections for the invited designer showcase at the Hollywoodbets Durban July this year and last year. I had my first solo exhibition at a gallery (Young Blood) during women’s month this year, and I exhibited my work at the Woolworths Fabric & Innovation Indaba last week. I won a silver award in the Fashion & Lifestyle category at the Enviropaedia Eco-Logic Awards two weeks ago.
What advice would you give to designers who are thinking about entering?
If you have a unique approach to sustainable fashion, definitely enter. The Twyg awards will magnify what you’re doing. When it comes to sustainable design, every small step helps, and perhaps what you’re doing could have an greater impact once more people know about it.
What are you working on now?
A new collection of womenswear and hats, titled ‘Wycinanki’, inspired by my Polish heritage and Polish folk floral art, made from recycled fabric waste. Traditionally, Wycinanki floral patterns were created with natural found objects such as bits of bark, leaves and scraps of leather, and the craft evolved into the use of paper, and later prints.
As with Polish crochet and embroidery, the Wycinanki floral patterns are inspired by the flowers that grow in a particular region, and the textiles tell the story of the flowers and natural environment of the people who live there.
You can identify which part of Poland someone is from by looking at the flowers in their traditional costumes.
My collection is a contemporary interpretation of Wycinanki using fabric off-cuts to create zero-waste floral designs inspired by South African flowers and fynbos where I grew up.
A key focus of this collection was zero-waste pattern-cutting, as one of the leading causes of fabric waste in the industry is the use of outdated pattern shapes for clothes and poorly plotted pattern-cutting.
Now, more than ever, it is crucial that designers rethink the shape of clothing to minimize unnecessary fabric waste.
MBALI MTHETHWA
What do you produce and how did you get into this line of work?
The Herd is a collaborative platform that works with Nguni women based in rural KwaZulu and Mpumalanga. Together we create handmade contemporary pieces: wall hangings and neckpieces made from glass beads. Our pieces are inspired by and pay homage to the iconic beading culture pioneered and mastered by Nguni women.
The Western-centric city setting that I grew up in created a sense of displacement and never feeling fully connected with my culture. My artistic endeavor has become a channel that facilitates a deeper connection with my culture.
My intention is to explore and bring awareness about an under-represented ancient craft, practiced and kept alive by Black women in South Africa, who tell stories which celebrate and anchor the silenced voices of the past.
What do you love about designing?
What I love about designing is the ability to be transported to a creative world that has no boundaries. In this world you can make, create and stretch yourself without limitations. Being in this world brings me so much peace and joy I feel deeply connected with a source that gives me such comfort.
When did you win the Twyg award and what did it mean to you?
I won our Twyg in 2021. What it means is that all the work that we are creating is valid and belongs. It made me feel like we are being seen.
How has focusing on sustainable practices informed your creative process?
Black African cultures and traditional ways of making things have always been informed by sustainable practices. So how that plays into my creative process is to look at how my ancestors were doing things, it’s the process of unlearning the toxic western-centric/capitalist systems and leaning into traditional practices which my people practiced.
Did winning the Twyg award have a positive effect on your career?
Yes, in so many ways. The main positives are that it gave us so much confidence and validity to create more. After winning we got the attention of people we have been dreaming of working with and collaborating with.
What projects have you been involved in since winning the award?
The most significant project that we were involved in was a 6m beaded Tapestry that was commissioned by Nike and Futura Design Agency. Shapa is located at Nike Soweto Football Stadium, Klipspruit, Soweto, Johannesburg its a beautiful facility so if you have the time go and check it out. To be honest they approached me before I won the Twyg but winning the award affirmed us. Definitely a game changing project for The Herd.
What advice would you give to designers who are thinking about entering?
Be authentic and be honest when you are answering the entry questions. Do not try to be someone you are not because the judges will see right through your answers.
What are you working on now?
Oh so many things to many actually lol, most significant is, Nkuli Mlangeni - Berg ( Creative Director of the Ninevites) and The Herd are hosting our first annual craft retreat called the Milasande Craft Retreat. The retreat is space created to celebrate and honour crafters for the exceptional work that they have selflessly created. We are creating a unique experience where people will explore and learn indigenous craft in a beautiful natural setting with Master weaver Mam Beauty Nxgongo. Mam Beauty Ngxongo is a world renowned artist and a custodian of the craft of Zulu Basketry. Look out for the next one.
Also trying to make moves in other countries and continents. We just took part in our first international trade fair called Maison & Objet in Paris.
Can’t tell you all our secrets but follow us of instagram @theherdsa and sign up to our newsletter on our website theherddesigns.com to have first dibs on what we are working on.
• The Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards 2022 are open for entries. Send them to awards@twyg.co.za. The deadline is October 11 2022.
