WATCH | Thebe Magugu’s latest campaign debuts in British Vogue featuring Thuli Madonsela

She’s been a Forbes Africa Person of the Year, is the recipient of Germany’s highest honour and, as one of Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in 2014, has been described as “an inspirational example of what African public officers need to be”.

Now anti-corruption crusader Thuli Madonsela can add fashion muse to her list of achievements as the former public protector leads a line-up of 18 prominent South Africans featured in renowned designer Thebe Magugu’s latest campaign, which debuts in British Vogue today .

“I am exceedingly honoured by the privilege. Being associated with Thebe Magugu, one of Africa’s exceptionally talented designers who has made the world their oyster is like the cherry on top,” said the professor, who is the chair of social justice at Stellenbosch University and founder of the Thuma Foundation for Democracy Leadership and Literacy.

Titled “Lobola Negotiations”, the campaign heralds the arrival of the third instalment of the hugely popular heritage capsule from the designer’s namesake brand, which is available for pre-order on the Thebe Magugu website from today.

In a mammoth undertaking after months of planning the designer, who has garnered an international following since winning the prestigious LVMH Prize, assembled a roster of the nation’s most exceptional individuals. They included legendary actor and playwright John Kani; broadcasting queen Anele Mdoda; rapper and South Africa's most followed woman on Instagram Boity Thulo; arts entrepreneur Mandla Sibeko; actress Nomzamo Mbatha; musical phenomenon Zoë Modiga; and Orlando Pirates midfielder Miguel Timm. The project visually explores the traditional custom of lobola in which the groom’s representatives negotiate an offer in exchange for the bride’s hand in marriage.

Madonsela is the central figure in one of the two key images in the campaign, executive produced by Jodie Ennik, photographed and directed by Imraan Christian with styling and art direction handled by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed.

The democracy champion, who served as public protector for a seven-year term and delivered  damning reports on state capture and public spending at then president Jacob Zuma’s Nkandla homestead, is joined by Ama Qamata (the star of Netflix’s locally produced international breakout series Blood & Water); advertising maven Nunu Ntshingila; artist Zizipho Poswa and chef Mogau Seshoene, along with Mdoda, Thulo, Modiga and Mbatha in an evocative ensemble image. The makotis (brides), wearing dresses representing nine tribes of Southern Africa, gaze into the camera, their heads cradling identical enamel bowls.

In the corresponding image, Magugu is the central figure after a last minute cancellation by another luminary, with fellow “grooms” Kani, Timms, Sibeko, rapper Priddy Ugly, brand guru Thebe Ikalafeng, actor Thapelo Mokoena, musical artist Tresor Riziki and celebrated photographer Trevor Stuurman.

“We have an incredibly rich history. However, often it is an oral history, so it is important to try and solidify our amazing imagery, poetry and language in objects. As a designer, I feel like I can do that through cloth. So, when I started, I loved this idea of interpreting each culture, their values and their aesthetic through a very celebratory print,” explains Magugu about the premise behind the capsule of dresses punctuated by illustrations from Phathu Nembilwi, which pay homage to the Zulu, Xhosa, Tswana, Swati, Ndebele, Venda, Pedi, Tsonga and Sotho cultures.

The lobola heritage dress shifts from the previous tent style to an hourglass silhouette, imagined through a shirt dress with an elongated angel cuff, belt and pockets.

The campaign sees men's wear come to the fore, with the introduction of the satin boxy-shaped lobola heritage shirt.

“I grew up with couples going to a wedding quite matchy-matchy. It is very on the nose, but I think it such a South African go-to when it comes to couples,” says Magugu.

The designer personally invited each of the names to be part of his cast, beginning with Madonsela, whom he met at a conference.

The shoot took place over two days at Glow Studios in Killarney, Johannesburg, and comprised a massive 40-plus member crew. Beauty brand Dior set up a lounge and provided a team of nine makeup artists to individually attend to each of the female cast.

For Madonsela, who described the hair and makeup preparations as “pampering”, the experience of her first fashion shoot was “extraordinary”.

“Full of surprises, and dollops of humanity!” she enthused.

Another first-timer was Timm.

“This was something different to the usual sports shoots, and I also got to make new friends in their respective industries and learn about their craft while sharing knowledge of mine,” said the player.

“What an incredible day, working with very talented young people celebrating our cultural diversity!” said Kani from Minneapolis, Minnesota, where he is a visiting professor at Carleton University.

Kani, whose career spans more than five decades and is internationally best known for his roles in the Hollywood blockbusters Black Panther and Captain America, said he was particularly interested that the campaign shed light on “an honourable practice”.

“From the beginning of time, lobola negotiations have always been uniting families and respecting the in-laws for raising your future wife-to-be. Lobola has nothing to do with what young people call black tax. Lobola is about building a relationship between two families, based on mutual respect,” said the 80-year-old actor and playwright, who in November received an OBE in recognition of his services to drama.

“Mamma I made it!” giggled Thulo about the launch of the campaign on British Vogue’s website. “Thebe is a national treasure — a talented, gifted being and an amazing friend whose work is timeless, with impeccable craftsmanship,” said the starlet, who most recently was seen wearing a Thebe Magugu heritage dress from a previous collection in Los Angeles during the Grammys weekend.