Nothing in this world is as certain as ageing, unless of course, you put death and taxes into the equation. Everybody ages but — depending on your circle, social media bubble, disposable income, how much you care about your looks, how much time you can throw at the issue and, of course, how knowledgable and dedicated your aesthetic doctor is — you can pretty much stop time in its tracks. These days, with all the technology and myriad treatments available, the way you look in your forties, fifties, sixties, seventies and even eighties is almost entirely optional.
I was invited on a skin journey by Dr Maureen Allem, founder and Medical Director of Skin Renewal, one of South Africa's leading medical aesthetic clinics, to discover the elixir of my youth.
Dr Allem is an HPSCA-registered general practitioner with 25 years of experience in aesthetic and holistic medicine and procedures. She's always believed that connecting the bridge between feeling great and looking your best, and using a holistic approach to rejuvenation is the way to go in the field of aesthetic medicine.
After a lengthy consultation to discover my unique skin issues, concerns and needs as well as the results I'd be most delighted to achieve, she drew up a comprehensive treatment plan to help me rediscover my best self.
MY ISSUES
My main skin concerns are:
To reduce the effect of ageing on my skin.
Tackle volume loss, wrinkles and dark circles under my eyes.
Fix the hormonal pigmentation I've developed, called melasma, mostly caused by sun damage.
My main health concerns are:
Stress from a very demanding life.
Oestrogen dominance, which also causes melasma and hormonal pigmentation.
Extreme lack of sleep: I go to bed late and don't get enough restorative rest.
The age and stage I'm at in my life with regards to hormonal fluctuations.
Melasma is something many women struggle with. It leaves dark patches on the skin, across the forehead, cheeks and upper lip, creating an uneven skin tone that can be frustrating to try cover up.
The under-eye area is one of the first places where volume loss becomes noticeable. Skin under the eyes becomes thinner and less resilient, leading to hollowing and the appearance of dark circles. Add to that fine lines and sagging.
THE JOURNEY
Dr Allem suggested a series of facial treatments to address my skin issues; consultations with Skin Renewal's resident holistic expert, Dr Maurits Kruger, registered homeopath and iridologist; and some in-clinic IV (intravenous vitamin) infusions, a blend of essential vitamins, minerals and antioxidants tailored to my unique needs.
THE TREATMENT
To start the rejuvenation process Dr Allem suggested a series of facial treatments featuring carboxy therapy for the face, concentrating on the eye area, and some laser treatments, particularly photodynamic therapy or PDT, which is a light therapy to treat the pigmentation and melasma. The facial treatments also include hydra dermabrasion, chemical peel treatments with salicylic acid and Pico toning, a cutting-edge laser treatment that uses ultra-short laser pulses.
Carboxy Therapy
This non-invasive treatment uses medical grade carbon dioxide (CO2) to rejuvenate the skin naturally. It's especially good for dark under-eye circles. Infusions of carbon dioxide are injected beneath the skin. Look, it's not comfortable, but it's definitely not painful, and the results — stimulation of blood flow and improved skin elasticity — justified any squeamishness I had about the sensation of cold gas dispersing beneath my epidermis.
Increased Blood Flow: The introduction of carbon dioxide gas triggers a response in the body known as the Bohr effect, which leads to the dilation of blood vessels, increasing blood flow to the treated area. Improved blood circulation helps deliver oxygen, nutrients and growth factors to the skin, promoting cellular rejuvenation and collagen production.
Collagen Stimulation: Promotes the production of collagen, a protein responsible for maintaining skin structure and elasticity. Increased collagen synthesis can help plump the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Tissue oxygenation: Carbon dioxide encourages the release of oxygen from red blood cells in the treated area. This localised oxygenation can enhance cell metabolism and promote tissue regeneration, resulting in smoother, more youthful-looking skin.
Neovascularisation: Carboxy therapy stimulates the formation of new blood vessels, a process known as neovascularisation. Increased vascularisation helps supply the skin with essential nutrients and oxygen, aiding in its overall health and rejuvenation.
Laser and PDT
Through the heating of the deep dermis, fibroblasts are stimulated to form new collagen and elastin and restore a more youthful appearance to the skin.
Pico toning
This is an advanced technique designed to enhance collagen production and disperse melanin clusters in the skin. It smooths skin texture and boosts tone but also effectively diminishes the visibility of imperfections, promoting an even and vibrant skin tone. Combining the powerful Pico toning laser by Vydence, Pico fractional laser and the MCCM MelanoOut Mask, the comprehensive treatment targeted and reduced my skin discolouration. Pico fractional laser also improved my hormonal pigmentation and repaired the leaky basement membrane between the epidermis and dermis which allows pigmentation to leak into the dermis, as Dr Allem explained. The pico fractional laser has an acoustic effect which breaks down deep dermal melasma into tiny pieces, which my immune system could then remove.
Radiance peel
A combination of salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic ccid and calming ingredients such as willow bark and liquorice root. Salicylic acid is comedolytic, a fancy word which means it unplugs dead skin cells and built-up oils. It's also desmolytic: it has an exfoliation effect on skin cells by disrupting intercellular connections and it's anti-inflammatory.
Sun block
No treatment is complete without foregrounding the need for sun protection. Broad-spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen is non-negotiable for anyone dealing with hyperpigmentation, as UV rays worsen these spots and cause further discoloration. But sunscreen alone isn't enough to solve the problem. For melasma, a more in-depth treatment plan is necessary to break down the excess melanin and improve the skin’s texture.
My home maintenance included Melanout maintenance cream and Kligmans Luma, which contains Hydroquinone, the gold standard for pigmentation.
HOLISTIC PILLARS
Of course, the foundation of great skin as you age is to realise that your skin is just one part of your whole body, albeit your largest organ. Dr Allem stresses the foundational pillars of health at Skin Renewal, looking at lifestyle issues like getting enough sleep, eating the correct food to treat your gut right, using the right medical grade products for upkeep at home, and learning to manage stress.
After going through part of the skin journey with Dr Allem, the best advice I can offer anyone embarking on their own rejuvenation journey is to prioritise education and patience. While treatments like Botox, fillers or chemical peels may be quick fixes, the real, lasting results come from understanding your own skin's unique needs and working with professionals to create a customised treatment plan.
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