Close Knit with Wanda Lephoto and Hannelie Bekker

How did this collaboration between you and Hannelie Bekker of Wrapt Knitwear come about? 

WL: I remember being struck by Hannelie’s work; the ingenuity of craft, the beauty of her work and the slow process of producing we often take for granted.  I remember having a feeling of hope for our industry knowing that there are people like Hannelie who continue to work slower but also continue to create for what we need in our industries now more than ever. 

HB: I first heard Wanda speak at a Twyg event in Johannesburg last year and loved the combination of a gentle spirit with an incisive mind. I was struck by his vision of a collaborative creative world: it clearly went past saying all the right things, to something deeply felt and truly believed. We chatted only briefly afterwards, but when Wanda got in touch a few months later about a possible collaboration, there was no hesitation.  

This collaboration reimagines the iconic, cotton-woven SUNSUM stripes. Why are these such an integral part of the brand and how did they come about? 

WL: The stripes came about as a reflection from my love of studying African flags, especially the South African flag.  In recent months and even years, I have felt the love for Africa from the global world has increased but us, who live on the continent, have become despondent. The stripe is a celebration of us and a reminder to us about what the significance of these colours is and why we should continue to celebrate and highlight the importance of what each colour represents to us. 

What do you admire about each other’s craft that you felt would be a great fit for your brands? 

WL: I admire Hannelie’s dedication to craft and detail, using the best fabrics in a way that is soft and gentle, with an authentic spirit that is not rushing towards an expected perceived idea of success but rather thoroughly thought through, crafted by hand, reminding me of the essence and importance of touch, but also reminding me of the human to human condition that can be expressed through fashion which is a beautiful reminder of how fashion can transform our feelings and shape us. 

HB: Even before the work itself, there is the approach to it.  I think that both of us place a high premium on work being “worthwhile” — whatever that might mean. We are also both less invested in fashion cycles than in craft, and cloth, and clothes. We believe in slow and thoughtful, perhaps to a fault.  As far as Wanda’s work is concerned, I admire the way he finds and employs a language that is so evocative, both highly specific and widely resonant. The “Bring Back Lost Lover” tee is an especially wonderful example!  On a more particular note, I loved the Sunsum suit and textile from the moment I saw it, and the possibility of working with those bright stripes was very exciting. It creates kinship between me, knitting with mohair, and a woman in Ghana, weaving with cotton, something I find quietly powerful and moving.

What fabrications can we expect from the collection and why did you choose to work with these? 

HB: The knits are made primarily in mohair, a fully local fibre. It is noble and luxurious, but also earthy, functional and durable: it has been engineered by nature to protect angora goats in regions like the Karoo and works equally hard when worn by humans.  It takes on colour beautifully, which makes it ideal for those vibrant stripes.  The vests also contain small amounts of merino wool, cotton and natural yarn blends. These were introduced quite organically to add textural variation and emphasise the fact that each piece is made individually rather than being mass produced.

What key design elements are always present in every Wanda Lephoto garment? 

WL: The essence and importance of story-telling that sometimes transcends the actual garment but is able to communicate important conversations required in pushing our designs forward in a way that seeks to unite us.

What is your favourite piece from the collaboration and why? 

WL: Every piece from the collaboration is our favourite because it was made with intention and purpose, a reflection of our collaboration and the beauty we’re able to achieve when we work together.