Like so many, Bebe Rose Honorine immigrated from Cameroon to SA in 1994 in search of greener pastures. Back then, the young hairdresser never imagined that, 24 years later, she'd be one of Cape Town's most extraordinary black woman food entrepreneurs.
When she first arrived in SA it was to focus on building a business in hair and beauty. She made a name for herself but her profession left her unfulfilled. This all changed in 2004 when her sister, Kotto Rachel, came to visit. Kotto always knew what Bebe, a mother of four boys, was truly passionate about - food and cooking.
Kotto persuaded her sister to join her in opening a small takeaway in Greenpoint, and it didn't take long for word to spread. West Africans swarmed out of the CBD enticed by the aroma of her jollof rice.
Soon the demand for Bebe Rose's authentic Cameroonian delicacies increased, and in 2009 Bebe swapped her salon for a permanent food stall in the basement of the old Women's Craft Market (Long Street, Cape Town). Bebe Rose's Cameroonian cuisine was such a success that she eventually expanded and opened her first restaurant in Church Street in 2016. Her son Martial Batchamen Tchana later convinced her to put her name to it.
Martial, an aspiring personal trainer, influenced Bebe Rose to follow a unique approach to African cuisine, where meat was no longer the focus. Although Bebe Rose restaurant serves a variety of West African meat and fish dishes, it ultimately seeks to celebrate the versatility of African vegetables, pickles and condiments.
For the past two years, Bebe Rose has become Cape Town's go-to for crispy plantain. Very popular among regulars is also the deliciously chewy bâton de manioc, which is fermented cassava wrapped in plantain leaves and boiled, as well as fried spinach and okra (slow-cooked to preserve its nutrients).
West African food is dominated by Nigerian cuisine. Yet, Cameroonian cuisine is distinct in that it uses less palm oil, and dishes are typically served with a hot and spicy Cameroonian pepper sauce made with multicoloured habaneros, tomatoes, peanut oil and celery. The recipe varies depending on the region and the sauce is either served as a condiment or used to marinate chicken or fish.
Bebe Rose's signature dishes are succulent banane malaxée, a delicious peanut banana stew, and poulet DG, a flavourful French-inspired stew which is served with chicken or as a vegan option and stir-fried with green and yellow peppers, plantain, garlic, ginger, carrot, palm oil and tomato. Bebe Rose also offers a few classics such as cassava leaves with tripe and braaied meats with pap or Cameroonian tomato stew served with fufu, made out of dried and grated cassava, also known as garri.
• Bebe Rose, 78 Church Street, Cape Town; telephone: 021-422-2525; open for breakfast Monday to Friday and lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday.
