It takes temerity to open up a glamorous and costly dining space in the middle of a pandemic and at a time when some serious heavyweights around the country are closing their restaurant doors. But it's just what the team behind Rosebank's Proud Mary have done, and it seems the gamble is paying off with reservations in prime time a necessity.
Owner Gary "Gazza" Hollywood has an impressive culinary pedigree, having been involved in the Jozi restaurant scene for the past 20 years and in partnerships with brands such as Doppio Zero, Piza E Vino, The Foundry, Streatery and most recently La Boqueria.
"With Proud Mary, our vision was to create an all-day modern eatery and wine bar specialising in small tapas plates, nostalgic café dishes, open-fire cooking and a chef's experience bar," says Hollywood.
"We wanted to open the business in the spring of 2020 but Covid prevented that from being a reality. We took the decision that no matter what happened with restaurant and curfew restrictions, if we were allowed to trade we would open and try and make it a success. We had just put way too much effort into the project and we had the people to pull it off no matter what."
Proud Mary is a partnership between Hollywood and the voco hotel in The Bank development in what is clearly becoming one of the trendiest spots in the city and a much-needed upgrade for Rosebank, which was in need of a serious facelift.
The first South African voco hotel will be officially launched in August. It boasts 140 rooms with interiors by local designer Nkuli Nhleko and will have an extensive art gallery curated by Morne Visagie from the Art Gazette.
A visual décor feast has always been important for Hollywood, who designed La Boqueria from the ground up with his then business partner.
"I love being involved in the design of my stores. With Proud Mary I worked with a good friend of mine, the interior architect Enrike de Villiers. Our vision was to create a timeless and modern mid-century dining room and bar," he says.
Proud Mary is a sensory delight; it manages to be proud without being overbearingly loud and is both stylish and comfortable. At the centre of the interior space is a sexy and dramatic wine, cocktail and champagne bar. Walls are painted black with pops of teal plush fabrics and tones of oxblood mixed with lots of natural wood and brass.
In the kitchen is chef Christo Nortier, who was mentored under Jamie Oliver at Barbacoa in London and then in the Jamie Oliver Group before his return to SA.
Visiting Proud Mary, you'll soon discover that the menu and dishes require more than a single sitting to fully appreciate.
There's a seafood raw bar as well as a variety of tapas and you'd do well to order a selection of small plates and share.
The seabass ceviche with lime tiger's milk and coriander was citrusy yet delicate (R85); the sticky pork belly with teriyaki, fresh chilli and coriander (R85) was unctuous and packed with Asian flavours; the coal-roasted broccoli with velouté and gremolata (R48) was sublime, as was the coal-fired octopus with pineapple confit and bright yellow saffron aioli (R95).
We returned a second time for individual mains and weren't disappointed — from the blue swimmer crab linguine in a lemon, wine and garlic sauce (R220) and a splendid sirloin (R165) with triple-fried chips and a béarnaise sauce to the wagyu burger (R145) and Proud Mary caesar (R115), a flavour bomb with yakitori chicken thighs, crispy nori and ponzu anchovy dressing.
There's also an array of well thought out vegetarian and vegan offerings.
Angela Jordaan has put together an impressive wine list that celebrates an array of small batch, local and independent wineries. There's also a wonderful cocktail menu.
This is a restaurant that Joburgers can be proud of — long may she continue to burn on the dining scene.
• Visit Proud Mary at The Bank, 26 Cradock Ave, Rosebank, Johannesburg. Open Monday to Sunday from 8am to 10pm. Call 010-023-3316 or e-mail reservations@proudmary.co.za
