Peter and Christine Watt have a passion as grand as the objects of their affection, a majestic herd of Percheron horses that dwell under their protection at Outeniqua Moon near Mossel Bay. Beautifully located in a region thick with forests and rambling fynbos, this charming guest farm offers a soothing escape bolstered by therapeutic interactions with these gentle animals.
The Percheron is an ancient breed that originated in France with a lineage that can be traced back to the 17th century. Huge yet agile, they are born black and turn grey (and vice versa) over time, a process that can take up to 10 years. They have served mankind for centuries, pulling colossal war and agricultural machinery. Now the Watts have dedicated themselves to ensuring these even-tempered beasts endure and thrive.
"Peter always wanted horses and his own farm," says Christine, who in her youth was accomplished in dressage and show jumping. "But it's a costly business, not for the faint-hearted. I had other ideas, to globetrot and write. But I adore him, and here we are."
They found an idyllic spot at the foot of the Robinson Pass in the Outeniqua Mountains. Twenty years and 27 beloved horses later, they are one of only two accredited breeding facilities in SA.
"Working Percherons have sacrificed so much and they have my utmost respect," Christine says. "I want our horses to grow old here and be buried with dignity."
Strolling through the fields, she greets each horse by name - Juno, Artemis, Vulcan, Mr Darcy and others - pausing now and then to rest her forehead against a silky neck. The bond between them is tangible, and being able to introduce and share the connection with others is one of her greatest rewards.
The horses' docile demeanour is calming, putting visitors immediately at ease. Simply being close to them is enchanting, but when Aragorn the foal drops onto the grass next to me to lay his head in my lap, my heart does a somersault.
SHADOWFAX THE GREAT
Percheron stallions weigh a ton or more — twice as much as a racehorse on average. The star of the stud and a major drawcard at Outeniqua Moon is Shadowfax the Great. A splendid specimen, he is the biggest horse ever bred in this country, weighing 1,250kg and measuring a massive 18.3 hands (186.5cm at the shoulder) and 1.86 at the withers (the ridge between the shoulder blades).
SA has some of the last true working draft conformation horses, meaning those of the original bloodline that stand as deep in the shoulder (from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the chest) as they are long in the leg.
Along with the Percheron, other draft horses such as the Clydesdale, Shire and Brabant collectively number in the mere hundreds across the world. In SA, Percherons descended from the original bloodline are increasingly scarce. Last year, the Watts established the Heavy Draft Horse Foundation, whose mission is to get Percherons specifically the recognition they deserve and to nurture the magical partnership between horse and human.
When it comes to strength, none compares to the four-wheel-drive power of the Percheron, which can draw up to five tons on wheels and its own weight at a dead pull, without the use of wheels. At the farm, buggy rides are the most popular activity, and when Vulcan gallops with the carriage behind him, it's effortless. "With up to eight passengers on board, that horse will still hare off like he owns the world," laughs Christine.
Aside from her husband, whose work as a survey engineer is what largely funds both farm and foundation, Christine depends on her right-hand man Kevin Oerson, a groomsman and farrier — and a horse whisperer in his own right.
Having grown up around the donkeys belonging to his grandfather, Oerson has been with the Watts since day one and knows each horse intimately, down to every neigh and whinny. His dream is to see Percherons working the land and doing what comes naturally. "It would be so lekker," he says. "Christine and Peter have given me a small piece of land here. I want to grow things - use a tractor to lift the soil and then bring in a draft horse to pull the plough, like old times."
KAROO COUNTRY HOUSE
The guesthouse with its red bricks, green corrugated iron and broekie-lace detail has a Karoo homestead feel. It's rustic with old-fashioned charm and has four rooms that sleep between two and five people, each one done up differently.
The honeymoon suite is perfectly private, overlooking the pool and Shadowfax's paddock, and the bedroom boasts a Victorian slipper bath and four-poster bed.
Christine is a fine cook and dinners, by arrangement, are served in the lounge warmed by a fireplace in winter. During the day, a huge bay window beckons as a cosy reading nook, if you don't mind sharing the space with Willow, the adorable greyhound-Africanis rescue.
Breakfast is served on the verandah, where you can expect to be visited by two resident miniature ponies with a taste for muffins, so keep an eye on your plate.
While day visitors are normally welcome, this is temporarily on hold due to Covid-19. Outeniqua Moon begs an unhurried stay. So take the trip, meet the horses and be changed.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Outeniqua Moon Guest Farm is just off the R328 (the road from Mossel Bay to Oudtshoorn) in Ruiterbos. It has four self-catering suites with accommodation choices and rooms to suit between two and five people.
RATES: From R690 (Blue Suite, max two adults) to R1,190 (The Cottage, max five adults) until December 15. This includes a 40% discount for web-only bookings. Rates also include a paddock tour, an interactive session with the horses (grooming and feeding), use of braai, picnic and pool facilities and access to hiking trails.
EXTRA COSTS: Meals (can be arranged in advance) and activities such as outrides (experienced riders only), two-hour scenic carriage rides and "herd tours" - which include sitting on Shadowfax - and horse meditations.
