The moment you land in Valencia, you’ll know you’re in a special part of Spain. The smell of orange blossoms from the 12,000 orange trees that grow throughout the city; the unmatched warmth of the people, whose faces light up when they see you; the magnificence of its street art, which adorns walls and garage-door shopfronts ; the culture; the architecture; the verdant gardens, of which there are many; its blue-flag beaches; and, of course, the Valencians' deep love for a good fiesta ...
Valencia is Spain’s third largest city, after much-visited Madrid and Barcelona, but it feels like a village, one that makes you feel you belong after just a few days. There is a ton to do here, not only in the city, but beyond its boundaries.
Having visited a number of times over the years, I recommend purposefully getting lost in the old city, Ciutat Vella, at the start of your trip. Begin at the Central Market, a stunning fresh produce and foodie Mecca with 1,200 stalls plus a few restaurants. Central Bar is owned by two-Michelin star and three-Repsol sun (the Spanish version of the Michelin rating system) chef Ricard Camarena and is a must for anyone who loves food.
0 of 2
It’s a great place to browse (and taste) Spanish and Valencian cuisine. Think Jamon iberico (in my opinion, the best in the world), Spanish tortilla (a potato and egg dish that varies to include onions, chorizo, jamon and vegetables), olives, cheeses and horchata (a delicious sweet drink made from tiger nuts). The market has a fantastic seafood section where you’ll be able to try all manner of morsels, including percebes (gooseneck barnacles) and uni (sea urchin). Most stall owners will let you try the delicacies and some will even cook the seafood for you if you'd like, which is handy if you’re staying in a hotel or flat without the obligatory Spanish outdoor kitchen.
IN THE OLD TOWN
After the market, walk off your meal by exploring the safe old town. The streets don’t follow a typical grid layout and are narrow and winding, which makes them especially fun to get lost in. You’ll find beautiful towers on either end, the Torres de Serranos and the Torres de Quart, the remaining two of 12 that were part of an ancient wall that protected the city.
Climb to the top of the towers for impressive views. Even if Catholicism or religion isn’t your thing, the Cathedral of Valencia is impressive, not only for its architecture and imposing presence, but for its art by legendary painters such as Goya and Maella. This 13-century building, on the site of a former mosque, also houses the Holy Chalice, or Holy Grail. Yes, this cup, made from agate and myrrh, is apparently the one that was used by Jesus during the Last supper. It's safely behind sturdy security glass in the Chapel of the Chalice.
Between the two towers you’ll find El Carmen, old town proper, full of street art, shops and hundreds of little cafes and restaurants, serving the most delicious tapas and meals.
FOOD: A NATIONAL OBSESSION
Talking about food, don’t forget that Spain’s eating schedule is different to ours, and might feel strange at first. One thing is clear, they are obsessed with food. They start their day with a slice of crusty, warm bread with olive oil or combined with grated tomato and slices of jamon. It’s delicious — maybe because tomatoes that are sun-ripened somehow taste better, not to mention the jamon.
The Spanish then have brunch, almuerzo, which might involve a tortilla, a sandwich or a pastry. Lunch is at 2pm and is the main meal. You’ll find most restaurants have a menu del dia (menu of the day), three-courses that includes a starter of a soup or salad or fresh seafood; a main, normally a full meal, such as paella; and a dessert, often fruit based, and coffee. This will set you back a mere €10 (about R210). Don’t be surprised to see the streets empty and the shops closed at 2pm. This is the legendary siesta, reserved for eating and sleeping, even on weekdays. Instead of feeling irritated that you can’t go shopping, join in — you’ll need to gather your energy for the evening.
Spaniards typically go out for dinner at 10pm, when it’s cooler, a lighter meal or tapas.
Valencia is the birthplace of paella, so don’t be surprised if you get a stern look if you ask for one with seafood and chorizo. According to Valencians, a paella is only a paella if it is made with flat green beans, lima beans, chicken and rabbit. Never seafood, never chorizo. They’ll tell you that a dish made with anything else is arroz con cosas — “rice with things”.
The city is bordered by the Túria, a 9km-long park. Until the late 1950s, the Túria River flowed between the old and new city, but was diverted in 1957 after flooding. Today, the Túria is known as the lungs of the city, a spectacular green space that draws millions of visitors and exercise enthusiasts.
Tour the Túria on foot or on an e-bike or e-scooter, which you can rent pretty much anywhere. Valencia is a city for cyclists and e-scooter users, with dedicated lanes.
The Túria is also the home of the City of Arts and Sciences. Against the backdrop of centuries-old architecture found everywhere in the city, it is modern and almost otherworldly. It’s the largest scientific and cultural complex in Europe and includes six ginormous buildings dedicated to art, music and science, and the largest aquarium in Europe. The buildings are as impressive as the treasures inside, and worth a visit.
Don’t spend all your time in the old city, because it’s touristy. On the border you’ll find Russafa. Its vibey, tree-lined streets are gorgeous, full of cafes and restaurants, art studios, a great market and stunning old buildings. It also has the most delicious paella restaurant, Masusa, on Calle de Sueca. If you try nothing else, have the squid ink paella (OK, it’s a “rice with things” dish, but you won’t regret it). It also has its own park, Central Park, a huge, spectacular formal garden where fruit, vegetables and flower beds have been planted for visitors' enjoyment.
All the walking is going to exhaust you, and when that happens head to one of the many beaches. About 10 minutes from the city centre, you’ll find three next to each other. Las Arenas, close to the harbour, is lined with seafood restaurants, many of which have been around since the 1800s. A short stroll along the coast, you’ll find Malvarossa beach and, our favourite, Patacona beach. The water is crystal clear and warm, and it has fewer people. Spend the day under an umbrella, swimming in the Mediterranean Sea, or snacking at one of the many chiringuitos (beach shacks serving cocktails, coffees and seafood snacks).
0 of 2
There’s so much to do in beautiful Valencia. It’s friendly, clean, safe and a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, so much so that it is consistently crowned the healthiest city in the world. With more than 300 days of sunshine a year, and a steady 19°C , it’s no wonder it's firmly on the radar of smart travellers.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
GETTING THERE: There is no direct flight from South Africa to Valencia but you can get there with a stopover in one of several cities, including Paris (Air France), Amsterdam (KLM), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines) and London (British Airways).
VISAS: South African passport holders need a visa for Spain. Apply through BLS International, which has offices in Pretoria, Cape Town and Durban.
WHEN TO GO: Peak season is June-August, the Mediterranean summer when the days are long, hot and sunny and tourist numbers are at their highest, as are prices for accommodation and food.
Low season, the colder months of November to February, are best for budget travellers and those who a less buzzy restaurant scene. The weather is still mild by European standards with average maximum temperatures about 20°C.
FUN AT THE FESTIVALS
Valencia's history stretches as far back as 138 BCE, when it was founded as a Roman colony.
Now a place with a strong sense of tradition and identity, it plays host to several festivals throughout the year. The largest is Las Fallas, officially a commemoration of St Joseph but unofficially “the biggest street party in Europe”, comparable, some say, to Germany’s Oktoberfest. For three weeks every March, more than 700 papier-mâché art pieces are displayed on the streets, and the daily revelry includes firecracker shows, parades, concerts and paella-cooking competitions. On the last night of the festival, all but two of the papier-mâché figures are burnt in giant bonfires.
Its most famous festival, however, takes place in the small town of Buñol, 38km away, on the last Wednesday in August. The tomato-chucking mayhem known as La Tomatina is sometimes called “the world’s biggest food fight” and “Spain’s messiest festival”. The action begins about 10am when a giant ham is placed at the top of a greased pole in the town square. The challenge is for revellers to climb the pole and capture the ham (apparently no-one ever does). At 11am, a water cannon signals the start of the fight and several trucks roll in to dump giant piles of over-ripe tomatoes across the square, after which the free-for-all begins.
