El Kef is a city built into the southern face of Jebel Dyr mountain, which is linked to the High Atlas mountains in the north-western region of Tunisia that borders on Algeria. The breeze that sweeps off the mountain and through the city’s streets offers relief from the hot weather and becomes part of the identity of a city whose riches are little known to the rest of the world.
El Kef, despite its magnificent natural and built heritage, is rarely on the list of tours organised for the international visitors who flock to Tunisia every year to enjoy sunny beaches and local culture.
Some visitors may be lured by its Sicca Jazz festival, which takes place annually in May, and its short film festival, Le Festival du Court Metrage au Kef, in October, but there is unrealised potential for economic growth and alternative tourism through the promotion of El Kef’s many heritage sites.
As architects and cultural heritage specialists who teach and conduct research about North Africa more broadly and El Kef specifically, we wish to highlight some of these unrecognised national treasures here.
THE CITY
Because of its steep geography, El Kef has a unique circular pattern with different heights that distinguish ancient and modern urban zones. It has its origins as an ancient Numidian city before it became Roman and Byzantine colonies, beginning in 241BC. It was then an Arab-Islamic medieval centre (688-689) and later fell under Ottoman Rule (1700s-1800s) before French colonialism and Tunisian independence. The social, economic and cultural dynamics of this history have left a tangible imprint on the urban environment.
El Kef’s heritage sites, many unrecorded, are evidence of centuries of religious cohabitation, with notable Jewish, Christian and Muslim populations as well as the multitude of Sufi currents. The city was home to renowned Sufi saint Sidi Bou Makhlouf. Through meditation and asceticism, Sufism in Islam embraces the philosophy of divine wisdom and love that are present in the world to understand God and the nature of humanity. The growth of Sufism in the 1500s encouraged the building of mausoleums, marabouts and mosques that are now an essential part of El Kef’s cultural landscape.
From its medieval historical core atop Jebel Dyr to the contemporary grid-layout neighbourhoods, the sloping city’s wide range of architectural styles include Mediterranean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab/Islamic and colonial influences.
It is history that gives El Kef its distinct identity. Serving as a hub for Tunisian theatrical arts, the city cultivates a blend of tangible and intangible heritage.
THE PLATEAU OF JUGURTHA
At an altitude of 1,200m, the Plateau of Jugurtha, 70km south of El Kef, is an important natural heritage site, covering 80ha. It is a mesa (flat-topped mountain) that has been linked to many legends.
The mountain is said to have stopped the Romans in their long war with King Jugurta of Numidia. The Kingdom of Numidia emerged around the third century BC in modern-day Algeria and parts of Tunisia and Libya. Its king, Masinissa, ruled between 201 and 148 BC. He is said to have built his first fortress on the mountain in 200 BC.
The area was also important during the Aghlabid era (800-909), a period marked by the dominance of this Arab dynasty who once conquered parts of Italy. In other accounts, the fortress was used by local inhabitants during the Fatimid era (909—1171). The Egyptian Fatimid caliphs were known for their patronage of the arts and architecture. In the 1700s, it is recounted that rebels, led by Senan, one of the chiefs who valiantly resisted the Bey of Tunis for an extended period, seized this expansive rock, using it as their fortress.
Jugurta has many water reservoirs (mejel) and its distinctive geological formation still preserves the fossilised remains of ancient creatures, including sharks. Ancient graves offer insights into burial practices and commercial activities a long time ago. Similar tombs exist throughout the El Kef region.
JERISSA
The town of Jerissa is 50km south of El Kef. It was historically on the ancient route between the Islamic city of al-Qayrawān and the Mzab Valley in Algeria.
With its colonial buildings, it developed around the largest iron mine in Tunisia. Jerissa was once known as Petit Paris (Little Paris), a name favoured by the French colonials. It was a diverse little town with miners from Italy, Malta, Spain, Algeria, Morocco and Senegal — and all religious groups. One can still see the few architectural components of the French colonial city.
One of Jerissa’s main resources is antimony, a semi-metal used in the electronics industry, essential for the traditional kohl make-up. Today Jerissa is all but forgotten despite its rich history.
A BOOST FOR THE REGION
An official development plan for the sites described here — and many more besides — is much needed. It can help grow tourism. Protecting the diverse and rich heritage of El Kef would boost the cultural, economic, social and environmental qualities of the region.
Responsible tourism will need to reflect a sense of awareness about the needs of local communities so that all can reap the benefits of the historical riches of El Kef and its surrounds.
Very few visitors venture into the northwest part of Tunisia, along the Algerian border, but those who do will discover an authentic destination, untouched by mass tourism but rich in cultural diversity and history and natural and archaeological sites. The visitor here could learn about layers of history, a regional cuisine, a local agriculture, and unique landscapes found nowhere else in the country.
FIVE TOP ATTRACTIONS IN EL KEF
- Kasbah of El Kef: This historic fortress, perched on a hilltop, provides panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside. The Kasbah dates back to the Ottoman era and offers insight into the region's military history.
- Roman Baths: The remnants of the Roman baths in El Kef highlight the town's ancient past. These baths are a testament to the Roman influence in the area and provide a fascinating glimpse into the daily life of ancient inhabitants.
- Sidi Bou Makhlouf Mosque: This beautiful mosque is one of El Kef's most notable landmarks. Built in the 17th century, it features stunning architecture and is a significant place of worship for the local community.
- Dar Hassine Allani Museum: Housed in a traditional 18th-century mansion, this museum offers a deep dive into the cultural and social history of El Kef. It showcases traditional clothing, furniture, and artefacts that reflect the region's rich heritage.
- Thuburbo Majus: Located a short drive from El Kef, Thuburbo Majus is an ancient Roman city with well-preserved ruins, including a forum, temples, and a basilica. It's an excellent site for history enthusiasts interested in Roman architecture and urban planning.
This article was first published by The Conversation. Published here with edits, with permission from the writers.
Majdi Faleh is an academic fellow in cultural heritage at Nottingham Trent University. Asma Gharbi is an associate lecturer and Nourchen Ben Fatma is a lecturer at the National School of Architecture and Urbanism at the Université de Carthage, Tunisia.
Would you like to comment on this article?
Sign up (it's quick and free) or sign in now.
Please read our Comment Policy before commenting.