Depending whom you ask, the Olympics are either a curse or a blessing on France. The hard-core Parisians all shrug their shoulders and grunt “Ehhh, the Olympeecs: chaos!”
The younger, more vibrant, global set may still shrug, but are a bit more effervescent in their reply: “An opening on the Seine, only the French could do something so spectacular!”
It doesn’t really matter whom you talk to, the fact is that it is exciting. And, as thousands of international athletes, sports professionals and dignitaries have descended on the City of Lights, there’s a tangible buzz in the air.
This frisson is first noticeable at the boarding gate in Istanbul — filing onto the flight is the national Kazakhstani Olympics team, alongside a contingent of Samoan athletes. They’re dressed in their “official kit” and, when spoken to, it becomes apparent that their nerves are not only about competing in the world’s greatest sports event — evidently these young men and women are also travelling abroad for the first time. Sport has always brought people together.
On arrival in Paris, the excitement continues — at the airport there are official “Olympics” ushers and, most surprisingly, the roads have been painted with vibrant 2024 numbers and Olympic symbols.
This official “tagging” continues throughout the city — national cultural monuments carry graphic symbols to represent the creativity and optimism associated with Paris 2024, as evident on the steps of the Sacré-Coeur Basilica and the many balustrades that close off parts of the city.
Because, yes, unfortunately there are swathes of the city it’s impossible to navigate. This includes part of the Rue de Rivoli; the area around the Palais de Tokyo; and the length of the Seine in the run-up to the opening ceremony on Friday July 26. There are ways around it, though, such as registering for city access on the official Paris Olympics site.
It also means visitors who don’t have official passes or tickets to the games are encouraged to explore areas a little wide of the expected Paris city guide.
Here’s a round up of the best on offer at the moment:
MUSEUMS
LA PALAIS GALLIERA
When you bring together fashion, Chanel and sport, you get this exhibition at the Palais Galliera. “La Mode en Movement #2" [Fashion in Motion] looks at how fashion has affected activewear and vice versa with a selection of some of the best sportswear over the ages. Swimming costumes, cycling outfits, side-saddle habits, motoring coats and accessories, jogging suits and sneakers all reflect the distinct silhouettes of three centuries of fashion history from the 18th century. See palaisgalliera.paris.fr
YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM
This may be one of the ‘old French’ palaces where all the staff from the doorman to the exhibition guards are rude and pretend they can’t speak English, but it’s also the home of a beautiful selection of Yves Saint Laurent collections, and specifically on display is an exhibition titled Sheer: The diaphanous creations of Yves Saint Laurent, an ode to his work with transparency. Add to this the fact that the top floor is the maestro’s studio and is still intact — his glasses casually placed on his desk with pencils scattered over his designs — mean it’s a must visit for any fashion aficionado. See https://museeyslparis.com
BEST FOR BRUNCH
HARDWARE SOCIÉTÉ
If you’re up for trying more than the typical le petit déjeuner, head for the Montparnasse district and this funky brunch spot, known locally for its “Australian breakfasts”. The menu has a curious selection of egg pots — baked eggs with peas, leeks and asparagus. Or creamed mushrooms. All served with a few slivers of bread. It’s physically tricky eating and definitely an unusual breakfast choice. Thankfully, there’s more than just the pots. A huge stack of scrambled bacon and toast is on offer, alongside bircher and other traditional “brunch fare”. The coffee is very very good, as is the décor and the service. See hardwaresociete.com/paris
BEST FOR LUNCH AND SUPPER
MOËT IN PARIS BY ALLÉNOS
Located within Beaupassage, a chic, pedestrianised cluster of restaurants, this buzzy new popup from Moët & Chandon is located in the seventh arrondissement just steps from Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The menu, constructed by Michelin-starred chef and long-time Moët & Chandon ambassador Yannick Alléno, is a delight with dishes including sea bass carpaccio and vegetable ravioli, a hybrid dumpling and pasta sensation.
There’s a full wine list but, of course, recommended is the paired Champagne that includes the Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial, Impérial Rosé or Ice Impérial and the Grand Vintage 2015 all served in the Moët Champagne glasses, newly designed to give the best mousse. Alongside the food, the décor is a vibrant explosion of colour and joie-de-vivre designed by the young fashion designer and illustrator Charles de Vilmorin.
With a daily Champagne happy hour, tasting events, DJ sets and live music sessions, it’s a destination for not only great food but also a fantastic Parisian summer vibe. See https://www.moetinparis.com/en/
GIRAFE
If money is no object, then this Saint-Germain restaurant offers the best view in Paris — of well-heeled, old-euro society and the Eiffel Tower. Plus, there’s a reason it’s at capacity most nights — the menu, specialising in fresh fish, is seriously delicious and includes shellfish platters and crudités. See girafe-restaurant.com/en/paris/
BRASSERIE DES PRÉS
This modern bistro is super cool with a fun menu of traditional French fare, such as croque-monsieur (toasted ham and cheese) and steak tartare. A truly modern Parisian brasserie, there’s a big shoutout to farm-to-table. For instance, the menu notes the origin of the potatoes for the [itals] frites and that the snails were found on Mont Bourbonnaise. See https://lanouvellegarde.com/en/brasserie-des-pres/
BEST SHOPPING
LA SAMARITAINE
Recently, La Samaritaine reopened after 16 years of renovation. One of the oldest department stores in Paris, at the foot of the Pont Neuf, this beautiful art nouveau building originally opened in 1870 and is now owned by LVMH. It is a carefully curated shopping experience that includes art from the Perrotin gallery, customised bottles of Ruinart Champagne and Street Caviar, a restaurant that reimagines the delicacy for the masses by adding it to traditional baguette sandwiches. There are also exclusive fashion collections and first-to-floor new season launches.
The current exhibition “Les Légendes Mondiales du Sport” [International Sporting Legends] runs through the ground and first floors and retraces the great sporting moments from 1910 to the present day, featuring 100 iconic and unique items never before unveiled to the public. See dfs.com/en/samaritaine
WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL HANA
Located in the heart of the bustle in the Opéra Garnier area, this 26-room hotel is a five-star oasis that is at once serene and indulgent. Designed by renowned architect Laura Gonzalez and fashion art director Olivier Leone, the hotel ethos is strongly influenced by Japan with Belle Époque influences. This can be especially seen in the spa menu, which includes reiki, kobido, reflexology drainage and even a special Olympics-themed treatment: “Olympic Spirit”, combining a deep-tissue massage and a guided music meditation. Be warned though, this is not a ‘budget’ experience. Rooms start from €400 (about R8,000). See https://hotelhana-paris.com/
AN AREA WORTH EXPLORING
BELLEVILLE
Like many gentrified areas popping up in cities around the world, Belleville was originally home to Paris’s Chinese community and there are still very good restaurants, small shops and [ITALS] marchés (markets) run by an Asian community.
Alongside these are established cafés and bars, where guests sit for hours outside nursing coffees or beers and watching the world go by.
Somewhere between both of these are the new, vibrant offerings, such as Candle Kids Coffee, a Japanese-inspired coffee shop with cold brew and matcha-cookies. La Cave de Belleville is a wine bar selling a selection of natural wines and the restaurant Cendrillon has frozen mango mesquite and a Peruvian-inspired menu.
The wide, tree-lined pavements and the fact that the area borders two parks (the larger one has a bar along the northern drag) mean there are also loads of young families living amongst the older communities. However, there is a distinct lack of hotels in the area — this is a spot for AirBnBing, where you get a sense of the “real Paris”.
Talking about “real”, if you’re wanting a sense of home, head to La Pomme d’Eve located in the fifth arrondissement, where the owner George Melidonis will pour you a pint and call you “boet”. This notable South African pub is a veritable home away from home for many South Africans and if you’re wanting to touch base with a little SA camaraderie, this is the place to go. See lapommedeve.com
