Gorgeous sunset views; giant tortoises munching on palms; the much-loved botanical and cultural icon that is the coco de mer; doing the Trois Frères nature trail to a lookout point with magnificent views over Mahé island in the pouring rain.... These are some of the enduring images I took away from my visit to the Seychelles.
I was also captivated by the breathtaking waterfall at Grand Anse on La Digue; the white sandy beaches and clear, turquoise waters; and the warm tropical climate that made me feel like I was in paradise.
I have travelled around the world over the years in my job as a journalist but I have never seen anything this beautiful, exotic or tropical. In my humble opinion, some of the beaches that I visited on the islands of Mahé, Praslin and La Digue can easily be rated among the best in the world.
One of the enduring images in my mind is witnessing the sunset from the pristine Beau Vallon beach. On the northwestern coast of Mahé, it is one of the longest beaches in the Seychelles. That picturesque moment in many ways encapsulates the exquisite beauty of what Seychelles is all about and has to offer as a tourist destination.
I arrived at Mahé International Airport in mid June. The first thing that hit me as I left the Air Seychelles plane was the humid air — it took me a few days to get used to it. I cleared customs with relative ease with the help of friendly airport staff, before I was driven to the beautiful Laïla Resort, which is a few steps away from Anse Royale (or Royale Beach — anse means “beach” in Seychellois Creole), for an overnight stay.
I must admit that, because of the heat and humidity and the sweating, I carried a towel with me most of the time. But, as the days went by, I somehow got used to the conditions.
The next morning started with a tour of the capital city, Victoria. I started at the Takamaka Rum Distillery, where the rums on show included Overproof, Extra Dark, Extra Noir and Coco. However, I do not drink alcohol so I could only go so far as to smell them.
Later, there was a visit to the buzzing Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke vegetable and fish market in the city centre.
I also visited the Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple — the only Hindu temple in the Seychelles, it is one of the most main attractions in Victoria — and the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which first opened its doors in 1874 and is still in good condition.
I also visited Mission Lodge, historically significant as the place where missionaries established a school for liberated Africans who arrived in the Seychelles after 1861. It is also the highest point travellers can reach on Mahé by road. Looking southward from the shaded gazebo where Queen Elizabeth II once famously sat for tea offers spectacular sea and mountain views.
After a long day of exciting activities, I was transferred to the airport to board a short domestic flight to Praslin island, where we stayed at the beautiful Le Duc De Praslin hotel.
Before I checked in at the hotel, I was taken on a guided tour of the famous Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve. This Unesco world heritage site is home to a well-preserved ancient palm forest and the endemic coco de mer. The coco de mer, also known as the sea coconut or double coconut, produces the largest and heaviest seeds in the world. The suggestive shape of the double-lobed seed — resembling a woman's pelvis or buttocks — earns it a lot of attention. Shrouded in folklore and legends, the palm grows naturally on only two of the Seychelles’ 115 islands — Praslin and nearby Curieuse.
LAID-BACK ON LA DIGUE
Thursday turned out to be another busy day. After breakfast, I took a 15-minute ferry ride to the island of La Digue. Even with a population of fewer than 3,000 people, it is the third-most populated island in the Seychelles and the fourth largest by land area — just 10.5km² — after Mahé, Praslin and Silhouette islands.
The fun started with a bicycle tour conducted by guide and local resident Josianna Rose. Rose, who grew up on the island, took me on an unforgettable journey, whose highlights included a stop to visit some giant tortoises. This type of tortoise is found in only two places in the world — the Aldabra Atoll in the Seychelles and the Galapagos Islands in Ecuador. These ancient creatures can weigh well over 400kg and grow to about 1.3m in length. Some have reached over 250 years old, but most live between 80 and 120 years.
La Digue, which lies east of Praslin and west of Félicité Island, has few cars and most people rely on bicycles. After exploring the small island, it was time to enjoy myself on the breathtaking Anse Source d’Argent, which boasts clear waters, golden sand and imposing granite formations to make it one of the most picturesque beaches in the world.
The journey back to Praslin by ferry that afternoon was eventful as it was high tide. It is worth mentioning that we made it but no-one was dry.
On Friday, a short flight back to Mahé was followed by a memorable 600m hike at Trois Frères, which led me to the top of the mountain for a splendid view of Victoria. After the steep and extremely tiring hike, I finally made my way to the magnificent Savoy Seychelles Resort and Spa, where I would be spending the last two nights of my unforgettable stay on the islands.
But I was not finished exploring yet. I was taken on a 4x4 adventure by skilled guide Leeroy Labiche on Saturday to enjoy spectacular views at places such as Mont Signal, Salazie and Anse Boileau. The highlight was the stop to see the spectacular Grand Anse Waterfall, where I had the pleasure of tasting the pure mineral water.
For six days, I was like a kid in a candy shop as I explored the best the Seychelles has to offer. Reflecting on it now, I realise that I was in paradise.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
HOTELS:
This luxurious hotel features a large pool in the inner courtyard as well as various bars and restaurants. It is only a few steps away from Anse Royale.
It has spacious rooms with the view of the sea, the surrounding mountains, the garden, and pool. Some of the rooms have their own balcony and there are shopping facilities and restaurants within walking distance.
Situated within walking distance of the white, sandy beach of Cote d'Or, Hotel Le Duc de Praslin offers stunning accommodation, a tropical garden, a spa therapy pool and two restaurants.
The elegant rooms, suites and apartments offer air conditioning, a flat-screen TV, tea-and-coffee making facilities and a terrace or balcony.
Guests can dine at the Café des Arts, which is right on the beach and specialises in fresh seafood. Creole and international cuisine can be tasted at Le Dauphin, the hotel’s main restaurant.
Savoy Seychelles Resort and Spa
Nestled on the Beau Vallon beach, this is a contemporary upscale hotel with 163 spacious guest rooms and suites that boast furnished balconies, air conditioning, free Wi-Fi and minibars.
If you have extra cash in your pocket, in-room spa treatments can be arranged by appointment.
Guests can enjoy all-day dining at the Grand Savoy restaurant or opt to dine and drink at one of the hotel’s other restaurants or poolside bars, where international cuisine as well as fresh local seafood is served.
TOURS: The 4x4 off-road adventure on Mahé — visiting multiple amazing highpoints — was with White Sands. A full day costs 1,500 Seychellois rupees (about R2,000) for one person and SCR2,000 for two. Send them an email or contact them via Instagram.
For all other tours, visit Tourism Seychelles.
• Mphahlele was a guest of Tourism Seychelles.
