Gqeberha may be known as the friendly city, but it's not the only Eastern Cape spot whose warm hospitality beckons tourists looking for an affordable getaway.
Exploring a bit of the coastal province recently, going from Jeffreys Bay to Cape St Francis, I found that it could easily be known as “the home of chill”. While, for Joburgers, a 30-minute drive to Pretoria is daunting, the concept of a two-hour trip in the name of a skydive is just another Tuesday on this side of the world.
WHERE TO EAT
When it comes to the culinary offerings of the Eastern Cape, many might assume that even the salads would be meats on meats, à la the stereotypes of Xhosa culture. However, the little province that could chugs along on unique delicacies and sips.
Budget spenders can look to seaside attractions such as Kitchen Windows in Jeffreys Bay. This is a beach restaurant focused on family-friendly dining. For under R300, I was able to tuck into three oysters, a pizza and a local favourite, the Jane Doe lemonade served in a jug.
For a more immersive seaside dining experience, try Die Walskipper, on the beach. Patrons are invited to kick off their shoes and trot about the restaurant right on the sand. Die Walskipper offers a long list of wines, beers, ciders and cocktails. The margarita is highly recommended and so is a boogie board in the nearby surf.
Waiting staff will also help you build your own supersized platter for four or more.
Something definitely worth trying in the Eastern Cape is the calamari. These are fished straight from the beaches in St Francis. The owner of the restaurant Dockside Seafood Co, Zabe Holtzhausen, says fishermen who take to the sea for the delicacy can spend up to three months out there. It's an arduous expedition but they can rake in millions.
During a calamari tasting, Holtzhausen explains that “calamari” is actually squid. He breaks down how the mollusc is caught, how to properly cook it and goes inside to expose every part of it, including a plastic-like spine. His restaurant is a top spot to bookmark if you are looking to hit the province for the Calamari Festival, usually held in September.
WHERE TO ADVENTURE
About 40km north of Jeffreys Bay, near Hankey, Pabala Nature Reserve is home to several fauna and flora and offers guided game drives. Here, you can also try a gin or honey tasting, all brewed on site. Make sure to arrange with the hosts to have a picnic at their highest point, with panoramic vistas. Campers on the grounds can also get a better look at the wildlife on site, where giraffes abound.
A charming aspect of St Francis Bay is its manmade canals, which one can explore on a laid-back cruise with St Francis Bay Adventures. Riding through the canals, enjoy the pristine views with the nonalcoholic drinks supplied, though you are more than welcome to add your own to the cooler box. The spot has been a favourite for its picturesque views and features other boat-themed amenities on site.
Real Housewives of Gqeberha fans will love the spot as one of its most explosive episodes was filmed here.
We also headed for Vlakteplaas, about 15km from Jeffreys Bay, where we were scheduled to leap out of a plane with Skydive Jeffreys Bay. Sadly, the weather made the jump impossible, so the next best thing was a horseback trek from the farm Papiesfontein with Beach Horse Trails across the Gamtoos River to the beach. The horses were a hoot and full of personality.
WHERE TO SLEEP
As an avid fan of the surf scene, I'm no stranger to the different corners of J-Bay. One of the standouts has always been The Mandyville, a four-star home away from home. Five of its rooms boast a sea view. Family rooms sleep two adults and two children. The staff are so friendly that, on a second visit, they will remember you.
Twenty-eight kilometres south, the Cape St Francis Resort has beach villas, cottages and apartments to suit a variety of group sizes and budgets. The villas can house large families or small travelling groups. We stayed in the four-bedroom Fish Eagle, a house best suited to outdoorsy types, who will also appreciate the rooftop view. Moonpath also has four bedrooms, each with a unique view. Each bedroom is fitted with a bath and shower. Guests all share the pyjama lounge, braai area and pool. Both units also connect directly to the beach.
PRICES & CONTACTS
- Game drive: R500 per person.
- Gin tasting/honey tasting: R250 per person.
- Tented bush stay: Own tent R485 per night; twin tent R845 per night; family tent (sleeps four) R1,690 per night.
ST FRANCIS BAY ADVENTURES: Canal cruises are R250 per person for one hour. Children under 12 pay R120.
SKYDIVE JEFFREYS BAY: From R2,800 for a tandem jump, with a 15 second freefall.
PAPIESFONTEIN BEACH HORSE RIDES: R500 per person.
THE MANDYVILLE: From R857.50 per person sharing in a classic room.
CAPE ST FRANCIS RESORT: The Fish Eagle beach villa sleeps 10 in a main house with four bedrooms plus a self-contained one-bedroom cottage with balcony. R7,805 per night until November 30. Moonpath also sleeps 10 and has a pool deck with sun loungers. R10,080 per night until November 30. See .
• Ntwasa was a guest of the Eastern Cape Parks & Tourism Agency.
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