“Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight” were the words David Livingstone used to describe the Victoria Falls after seeing them for the first time in 1855. And now, 170 years later, people from all around the world are experiencing that vision for themselves — no longer as intrepid explorers roughing it in the wilds but in comfort and style.
Recently, I joined Minor Hotels on a trip to visit their properties on either side of the falls, staying at the Anantara Stanley & Livingstone Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe and The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara in Zambia.
With fine dining, sunset cruises, a black rhino experience and a visit to the Angel's Pool, the experience was unforgettable.
Our first stop was the Stanley & Livingstone, a boutique retreat with a five-star rating and hospitality second to none. We found welcome platters of fruit, sparkling wine and handwritten notes from hotel manager Dionne Mutsonziwa in our elegant suites, plus framed “welcome” chalkboards signed by “Richard from housekeeping”. And to top it all — we all received metal water bottles with our names printed on them and a QR code that, when scanned, enables you to refill it at any of the water coolers dotted around the falls. Each refill also lets you know how many water bottles have been saved by these reusable containers.
First on the agenda was sundowners with a gin tasting, where our hosts talked local gins as we sampled botanicals and created our own drink. Then it was time for dinner, an evening chef’s table and wine pairing. The eight-course tasting menu features “high quality farm-to-table” produce from around Zimbabwe and wines from South Africa. Zambezi crayfish cones (yes, there are crayfish in the Zambezi and they are extremely edible), cauliflower three ways, ostrich fillet, pan-fried bream, charred butternut and baby onion risotto, a mint and Amarula semifreddo dessert and a cheese platter all featured along with various wines — the entire experience costing US$75 (about R1,415).
The next day, we headed out for a guided tour of the falls, with Sikhulu Nkomo leading the way. He is Stanley & Livingstone’s in-house game ranger able to answer virtually any question to do with Mosi-oa-Tunya, the local name for the falls, meaning “the smoke that thunders”. Nkomo took us through some basic information — how wide, how deep, how much water — which all faded to insignificance. With roaring in our ears, finally there was the sight to behold — one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.
In awe, we walked the trail, stopping at each of the 16 viewing points. Rainbow Falls, Devil’s Cataract, the Boiling Pot, Knife Edge Bridge, Horse Shoe Falls and Danger Point — each magnificent. We visited early in the rainy season, but already the water level was high and Devil’s Pool — a rock pool on the edge of the falls where it’s possible to sit and swim — was already unreachable.
Those viewing the falls at this time of year should keep a few things in mind. Though you walk through a rainforest and you can see the mist, the water swirling in the air comes from below as well as above, so a raincoat is ineffective. There is no getting away from the fact that every visitor gets completely drenched. Keep this in mind when it comes to bags, passports (which you have to show at the entrance), phones and other items that you don’t want getting wet. Take a sealable plastic bag along or ask for one at the ticket office.
Another hazard for fair-skinned visitors: the summer sun is a belter and the drenching mist washes off all sunblock so be prepared and take extra sunscreen and a hat if you don’t want sunburn.
The next evening, again guided by Nkomo, we headed out into the Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve — the hotel is situated within this reserve — for a Black Rhino Conservation Experience. On the twilight game drive, we spotted two of these giant animals as well as a host of other giraffe, kudu, hippo and some very industrious dung beetles kicking their giant balls along the road. Then it was time for an opulent bush dinner in a boma, where platters of food awaited us.
From springbok stir fry to salad and prime steak, the options were bountiful. Back in our rooms, we found our beds turned down, and a personal goodnight wish chalked on the board from Richard in housekeeping. It was with mixed feelings that I packed my case and headed to check out the next morning, but it was time for the second part of the adventure.
As I stepped into the sunlight, out of nowhere a smiling Richard appeared and offered to carry my suitcase as we walked together to the main hotel. He proudly shared how he had been head of housekeeping for 12 years now, a position he treasures as he loves his guests.
FIT FOR ROYALTY
And so, from the warm hands and smiles of the Zimbabwe team, we moved on to the wild and wonderful opulence of the Royal Livingstone in Zambia, where an enthusiastic team in matching dress greeted us with a song and a dance as we checked in. What a treat! Not only were the suites well designed and artistically decorated, but they also came with butlers. Giraffe and zebra roamed the property, seeming unfazed by the presence of people. Men armed with catties dashed around, making sure baboons and monkeys could not cause trouble.
It’s hard to describe the feeling of welcome as you sit back in a suite centred around a white bathtub, with champagne on ice and a platter of fruit at hand. But no time to rest — it was off to high tea, where tiered trays of decadent delights awaited along with local and imported teas and glasses of bubbly. Later, at sundowners on the riverside deck, we were joined by our hosts Laurie Burr, the complex general manager, and hotel manager Longa Milukelela.
Burr, who has worked all over the world, says the Victoria Falls property is among the top. “We can make almost anything happen here for anyone,” he said, describing how they had once filled the swimming pool with ice for a Russian wedding party who had ordered a ton of imported wines and champagnes. The line had been drawn only once, he said, when an impossible bride had objected to the appearance of the giraffes on the estate and wanted them spray-painted “to look more like the ones in The Lion King”.
“That’s something we would never do,” Burr laughed.
And then it was time for the Monkey Tree dinner, a seven-course fine-dining experience under a giant chandelier made of lamps strung together under a towering tree on the river bank. Chef Brenda Moono talked us through the courses and the local produce that had been used. Paired with wines, the experience was elevated as the traditional dancers on the deck — along with a fire eater — were soon replaced by the Victoria Falls String Quartet, who provided elegant entertainment for their enraptured audience.
The next day began with breakfast on the river. We dined on a floating jetty, enjoying platters of offerings or having specific requests brought from the Old Drift restaurant. Then it was time for a visit to Livingstone Island, where we were to swim in the Angel's Pool. As we donned our costumes, our host introduced us to his team — one deep-water rescue expert assigned to each of us. As we stepped out on the rocks that led to the pools, we were guided by men skilled in showing others how to navigate the terrain.
“The water is too high for us to go to Devil’s Pool. It’s too treacherous. This one is a bit easier and that’s why we call it the Angel’s Pool,” our guide said, reassuring us that they had a 100% safety record. One-by-one, we were led to a rock pool positioned at the very edge, where you are able to sit on a rock and have water wash over you and down into the depths of the falls. We squeaked nervously as each of us was guided to the edge and shown how to pose. Our guide took our cellphones and instructed us to raise our arms, smile, wave and then plunge the hand down to show the mightiness of the raging falls. All the while he filmed, and all the while our attentive water-rescue expert hung on to our ankles for reassurance, out of the camera frame. Each one of us left with an impressive little video and a massive load of pride, having experienced one of the seven natural wonders of the world in all its power and glory.
Later, we boarded the African Princess for a sunset river cruise. As we slowly floated along, the crew brought us warm blankets to wrap around ourselves as the wind picked up. We drifted past several groups of hippo near the banks and one yawned as British tourists chatted about how they had holiday homes in France and Cypress and yet nothing could compare to this. The skies changed colour and the drinks flowed freely. Another day in Africa was coming to an end as Zambia continued to flash her brightest smile and show off the best she has to offer.
GETAWAY AT A GLANCE
Getting there: The writer flew on Airlink, which serves Victoria Falls and Livingstone with daily flights from Johannesburg (flight time one hour, 45 minutes) and four flights per week from Mbombela (Nelspruit) (flight time 1 hour, 55 minutes).
Visas: South African passport-holders are eligible for a free visa on arrival in Zimbabwe and Zambia.
Accommodation: The Royal Livingstone Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel By Anantara is priced from R11,204 per room per night, including breakfast and complimentary access to the falls. Anantara Stanley & Livingstone Victoria Falls Hotel is from R16,154 per room per night, including breakfast.
Things to do: Adventure tour operator Livingstone’s Adventure is Minor Hotels’ preferred activities provider in and around Victoria Falls. Options include helicopter and microlight flights; picnics on white sand beaches in the Batoka Gorge; Zambezi River cruises; canoeing; quad biking; white water rafting; and horse riding.
• Gifford was a guest of Minor Hotels.
