I reach for my small notebook somewhere above the Indian Ocean on the return flight from Mahé to Johannesburg.
It's a salty, sticky reminder of the oceanic excess that came before, but then, the Seychelles sticks to you.
The emerald waters that surround the islands draw you in and hold you in their warm embrace. Despite their perhaps better-illuminated neighbours, such as Mauritius, which overshadow these islands in tourist numbers and economic prominence, the Seychelles deserve their place in the sun.
When your body is weary and your heart is heavy, the restorative power of these islands with waters as warm as its people is just the antidote.
During our stay, threatening cumulonimbus clouds obligingly remain on the horizon. The Seychelles' proximity to the equator leaves it outside the destructive path of cyclones that devastate its southern neighbours.
It is, of course, not insulated from outside terror. Though much of its economy is built on tourism, the Creole life often yields to the whims of US, Middle Eastern and Russian visitors. Russians, according to one local, are now less vocal than they used to be.
One morning, the potential for a breakfast confrontation spikes on the sea-facing terrace of our Eden Bleu Hotel when a tall, thin gentleman in beige overalls disturbs the morning calm by cranking his leaf blower to life. He immediately draws death stares from a nearby table occupied by three Russian men.
They mumble among themselves and, mercifully, soon the last intruding leaf is cornered.
While the Russians have swallowed their collective tongue, their rubles are making waves. Monuments to their oligarchy's ostentatiousness gleam spotlessly in the marina, while two yachts too large to enter have dropped anchor just off shore.
We drive through the capital Victoria in what appears to be the dying embers of peak-hour traffic. It takes less than 10 minutes to negotiate as Victoria is one of the smallest capital cities in the world. Roots Seychelles, the creative retreat of Rastafarian textile artist Tony Souffe, sits halfway up the forested mountain above Beau Vallon. Here, visitors can roll up their sleeves and craft their own pieces under Souffe's guidance.
Also joining on the artsy excursion is a retired couple from Birmingham. We are ordered down the road leading to Souffe's property to gather branches, leaves and flowers that will help with our display. One of his friendly German shepherds follows. As we approach his neighbour's property, an elderly gentleman named Sok walks our way, breaking into chat before he is properly in earshot. He looks welcoming enough but, as I snap a fern, I notice a man wearing knee-length shorts clutching a machete also heading our way. I'm not sure whether to proceed and start wondering whether I just inadvertently defaced a vanilla tree.
The man with the machete barks something inaudible in our direction but it is soon clear he was directing it at the dog, who knowingly turns around and heads for the hills. Apparently, dogs are responsible for the dwindling chicken population at Souffe's neighbour's place.
Souffe is full of tall tales and theories. Having spent time in Birmingham, he hits it off with the couple and cools their heads with water from a freshly cut coconut. War stories are shared. Souffe broke his back in a diving accident in 2009 but points to the healing properties of herbs, plants and a positive mind during a three-month stint in the jungle.
His spine is still crooked but his wit is as sharp and straight as an arrow. The man from Birmingham is asked about the state of his lower right leg. He explains a rusty shooter and shotgun conspired in the self-inflicted wound. He had an unpleasant pheasant hunt but the keen angler continues to travel the world in search of the next catch.
Souffe turns his attention to me. “How can you not be Seychellois, mon?”
Around 20 minutes later after inspecting my artwork (or attempt at it), Souffe intones: “You are from the mainland, mon.”
COME FOR RUM
Time at Roots is cut short by a call from my travel mate, who forged ahead to La Plaine St André on the east coast of Mahé. This is where Takamaka, a wildly popular rum, is made and its owners have strong South African connections.
Retha d'Offay, who is originally from Stellenbosch, describes their journey from having only a dream to now exporting to 56 countries. She is a bubbly, gregarious host and her enthusiasm is infectious.
She is the marketing manager and wife of Richard D'Offay, who, together with his brother Bernard, co-owns the business. Richard was based in Gqeberha when his brother, who was based in London, came up with the idea to return to the Seychelles and start a rum-making business.
Their fruitier, spicier rums are different from those in the Caribbean. The Takamaka brand, whose name comes from an indigenous tree on the island, comprises six different rums from the Seychelles.
The distillery operates from a restored colonial-era spice plantation, which now serves as a heritage site and visitor centre. It is popular with locals too with Fridays dedicated as party night.
It is easy to see. We chat, chuckle and chortle and are the envy of others but soon the bus with the tourists is gone. We press on.
PRASLIN'S PRIDE
If time was on our side that afternoon, it was in short supply the following day. Up at sparrow's, we head for a ferry for an hour-long crossing to Praslin island. We have an appointment at the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve to see the pride and joy of these islands: the coco de mer is the rare species of palm native to Praslin and Curieuse. Its exceptional size, suggestive form and circumstances of discovery have given rise to many legends.
How it continues to populate is in itself a tale a wonder. Coco de Mer takes 27 years to reach maturity and distinguish whether a particular tree is male or female. When the female ovulates, geckos pick up the scent and pronto find themselves on a pollinating pursuit.
The gecko does this by licking a small hole on the nut that is only open for 24 hours. Vincent, our guide on this part of the tour, was nonplussed when asked if, for both the male and female, the gecko performs a selfless service. Some trees grow higher than 30m but, remarkably, no deaths have been recorded from a 15kg coco de mer's ill-timed descent.
DIGGING LA DIGUE
Soon, we're on another ferry heading to La Digue, known for its spectacular beaches. We forgo the arranged transport and rent bicycles with our first stop at a sanctuary for giant turtles. We don't see much as they are huddled in the shade. It is perhaps a portent of what awaits us at Anse Source d'Argent, trumpeted as one of the most picturesque, thus the most Instagrammable beaches in the world.
Its pearly white sand, granite boulders and crystal blue water lend credence to the claim. Clearly its reputation stretches far and wide, as it takes a while to locate two towels' worth of vacant sand. Once in the shallows, the experience is almost immediately spoilt by the hissing of drones at either end of the beach. Mercifully, we can't stay long.
We head for the ferry back to Praslin, where we catch a sunset flight back to Mahé. A typically noisy Twin Otter climbs effortlessly into the dusky sky. All eight passengers expect a bumpy transfer but we climb to around 5,000 feet before levelling out. The smooth flight with breathtaking vistas is just what is needed after a long day.
Our final day is one spent mostly in the world's biggest jacuzzi, the Indian Ocean. It starts off with snorkelling and feeding the fish, though not in a Sopranos way, before heading to a beach on Long Island. It once served as the islands' juvenile prison but we find it thoroughly liberating as we finally have a bit of unrushed time of our own. It is here where the Seychelles experience is perhaps felt most acutely. The bulk of our time is spent face down looking at the ocean floor and floating facing the sun. Bliss — or blisters if you don't properly observe your SPFs.
A narrow section of water between Long Island and its neighbouring North Island is waist deep and we wade across for a grilled-seafood buffet on the beach. The rest of the tour operator's guests are already there and the 20 or so surly Russians look like they're still mourning the loss of the Kursk. One of the younger females goes up to one of the dreadlocked serving staff to enquire if reggae is the only genre available on today's playlist. She turns away like tennis pro Maria Sharapova having just lost a global perfume ambassadorship.
Back on Mahé, Fifa's Beach Soccer World Cup is the big ticket event. Not since the conquering French and the English arrived there would the Seychelles have encountered an invading force like Fifa.
The crowd inside the 3,000-seater purpose-built arena is enthralled by the players' intensity and physicality.
I watch Belarus play Guatemala. For a landlocked country, the more physically imposing Belarus are thoroughly proficient and play out of their socks.
Players would hit the deck appearing to be writhing in pain in the hope of drawing a favourable outcome from match officials. The only difference with the 11-player game, however, is players don't roll around on the beach sand with the same alacrity or theatrics as they would on grass. This would hold granular peril for carefully manicured hairstyles.
Clearly they have understood that, like it or not, the Seychelles will stick to you.
GETAWAY AT A GLANCE
Getting there: The writer travelled on Air Seychelles. The airline has at least two weekly flights to Mahé.
When to go: Between April and May, and again from October to November. These periods are considered calmest with less wind or rain.
Accommodation: The writer stayed at the Eden Bleu Hotel, where a standard room (executive garden view for two people sharing) is priced from R5,600.
Visa requirements:
South African passport holders do not need a visa for stays of up to 90 days in the Seychelles, but they must obtain a Travel Authorisation (TA) before arrival. The application requires:
- Flight booking confirmation
- Accommodation details
- Payment of a €10 fee (about R200)
- Health documentation (if applicable, such as a Yellow Fever certificate)
Apply through seychelles.govtas.com.
• Del Carme was a guest of Tourism Seychelles.
