TravelPREMIUM

Why Mauritius is the perfect winter escape for South Africans

From adults-only luxury at Riu Palace to waterfalls, rum tastings and Creole lunches, here’s why this Indian Ocean island makes the ultimate mid-year break

Hotel Riu Palace and Turquoise lie side by side on the Le Morne Brabant peninsula in the southwest of the island.
Hotel Riu Palace and Turquoise lie side by side on the Le Morne Brabant peninsula in the southwest of the island. (Supplied)

If you want a quick getaway from the miserable South African winter, then Mauritius is simply a hop, skip and jump away. OK, maybe not a hop and skip, but certainly a fuss-free flight from Johannesburg. Flights on FlySafair are frequent and quick from OR Tambo to Mauritius’s international airport, named Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport after the first prime minister. Plus, you don’t have to go through endless red tape. If you are a South African resident you don't need a visa — just a passport valid for at least six months beyond your stay and with at least two blank pages. 

GOLDILOCKS WEATHER

I asked Google what weather to expect in August. “During the day, temperatures usually range from 19°C to 25°C, providing a pleasantly warm atmosphere. The sun shines for about seven hours per day, though UV protection is recommended. The humidity, though present, is moderate and not overpowering, making daytime excursions enjoyable.”

It was a relief to leave behind my usual five layers of clothing that I’ve been wearing every day to pack only my sundresses, swimming costume, hat and sandals. It’s quite humid, so be prepared to sweat a few beads but overall the temperature is what I would call goldilocks weather — not too hot and not too cold. Just right.

The swim-up bar at Riu Palace Mauritius.
The swim-up bar at Riu Palace Mauritius. (Supplied)

BLESSED BE: NO CHILDREN

My ultimate dream vacation is to go with my husband to a child-free resort. So this was a great opportunity to check out the Riu Palace in Mauritius, an exclusive adults-only beachfront hotel. “Adults only”, incidentally, does not mean, as a fellow traveller thought on the trip, strip clubs and nudist beaches; it simply means no children allowed — absolute bliss for Sinks (Single Income No Kids) and Dinks (Double Income No Kids). For those who want to take their children with, Riu Turquoise is just next door and happily caters to the whole family. 

Both Riu resorts (Turquoise and Palace) enjoy a beachfront location on Le Morne Brabant peninsula in the southwest part of the island. Both also offer a 24-hour, all-inclusive service. If you are an Elite member, when you enter the tropical lobby with plush wicker furniture, ornamental chandeliers and huge wooden reception desks (think White Lotus Thailand), you are given the golden cuff of indulgence. At least, you are given a wristband, which you don’t take off while you are there. (It cleans easily enough when you shower so don’t worry about that). If you have this on, drinks (alcoholic, non-alcoholic) and meals are all included.

At Riu Palace, there are over 300 rooms. It's newly built and furnished, so everything is clean, modern and fresh. If you can afford it, do yourself a favour and get what they call the Suite Swim Up — an Elite room in a prime location (close to the bars and pools), where you’ll be able to enjoy the preferential la-di-da service. These 40m² rooms have a king-size bed or two twin beds (on request), a lounge, satellite TV with streaming services, a huge bathroom, a premium drink dispenser (those fancy things you see in bars with the bottles of spirits upside down ready to pour), and a private terrace with its own small pool.

What you do have to pay for is if you want any massages, beauty treatments or hairdressing services at the Wellness Centre. If you are one of those people who actually exercise on holiday, there is also a fully equipped gym. And you can book all the watersports your heart desires from paddle surfing to snorkelling. 

Riu Palace has more than 300 rooms, all newly built and furnished.
Riu Palace has more than 300 rooms, all newly built and furnished. (Supplied)
The swim-up suites have private terraces and their own pools.
The swim-up suites have private terraces and their own pools. (Louise McAuliffe )
Inside a junior seaview suite.
Inside a junior seaview suite. (Supplied)

PLEASE SIR, CAN I HAVE A STEAK?

Food and travel go hand in hand and this is where the Riu Palace falls short somewhat. The few specialty restaurants are not big enough. You have to book them far in advance of your stay. We only just managed to get into Bangalore, the Indian restaurant, which served delicious curries, naans and side dishes.

Mostly — and keep in mind this is breakfast, lunch and supper — we ate at La Riviere, the main restaurant. There is no other way to say it: it’s mostly an upscale canteen. Even though there was plenty of choice from pancakes to exotic poke bowls, there was nothing à la carte. This is definitely not the way I want to eat for a week in a four-star resort. We got to sniff and take a peek at the other restaurants — there is a steakhouse, an Asian restaurant, as well as a gourmet-type place called Krystal. All looked and smelt fabulous. Would have been nice. 

Bangalore, the Indian Restaurant at Riu Turqoise.
Bangalore, the Indian Restaurant at Riu Turqoise. (Supplied)
Breakfast at the Elite Club.
Breakfast at the Elite Club. (Supplied)
The main restaurant at Riu Palace.
The main restaurant at Riu Palace. (Supplied)

DAY TRIPPING

If you want to leave the bubble of the resort, there are a few things to do out and about. We headed out with tour company Klik Moris. Port Louis is always a good start if you want to see the working part of the island as well as explore some of the different cultures that make up Mauritius. It is one of the oldest cities in the southern hemisphere and has been the capital of Mauritius since 1792. 

There are quite a few attractions but since most people in the group were keen shoppers we spent quite a bit of our time at the colourful Le Caudan Waterfront, which offers some fashion (apparently really well priced cashmere scarves) and local crafts. It's also a good place to get some cheesy fridge magnets and other souvenirs. We then went to the citadel, which stands sentry over the capital on the highest hill in the city. The fortress, called Fort Adelaide, is impressive with its impenetrable high black brick walls. It was built under the British rule of Sir Charles Colville and dates back to the 1830s — spectacular views of the city.

We then headed to Chez Tante Athalie restaurant for a Creole Mauritian lunch in a district called Pamplemousses (which means grapefruits in French, and which, according to Wiki, was probably the earliest botanical garden). I was so glad to get something besides La Riviere food, and the chicken and aubergine curry did not disappoint. Chez Tante Athalie is a bit of a quirky place — like Boksburg meets the Appalachians. There are gorgeous classic cars on the not-so-well manicured lawn and old '60s Coca-Cola signs on the walls. 

At the Chamarel Seven Coloured Earth Geopark.
At the Chamarel Seven Coloured Earth Geopark. (Louise McAuliffe )
The majestic Chamarel waterfall plunges over 100m.
The majestic Chamarel waterfall plunges over 100m. (Louise McAuliffe )

THE SANDS OF TIME

I admit, I am a sucker for any solid series on the History channel or the Discovery channel (we are talking proper geography, history and geology and not watching people haggle for storage lockers). When I saw we were going to the Chamarel Seven Coloured Earth Geopark I was most excited. This is a unique geological formation featuring sand dunes of seven distinct colours. It is one of the most photographed natural wonders. That’s about it that I learnt. My advice? Get a guide who can give you the information you are looking for. There are information boards but they are not very forthcoming about the formation of dunes and exactly why the different colours exist. It’s a pretty impressive sight but we spent less than 15 minutes there. In a nutshell — don’t make it a highlight of your trip.

Rather, look forward to first seeing the majestic Chamarel waterfall, which plunges over 100m and then, not so far away, go for a rum tasting at the Rhumerie de Chamarel Restaurant & Rum Distillery. We tasted about 11 rums (ooh boy!) and had a mini tour on how the drink is made from sugar cane. The growing of sugar cane was the biggest industry of Mauritius at one point and as you drive around the island, you see the plant almost everywhere. Buy a bottle of rum. You won't regret it.

On the beach at Riu Palace.
On the beach at Riu Palace. (Louise McAuliffe )
Riu Palace Mauritius
Riu Palace Mauritius (Louise McAuliffe )

Mauritius is an oddity in that surrounding these massive, luxurious resorts are spaces that are derelict, unfinished houses, rundown shops and restaurants — places that look like forgotten small towns. There is a sense of two separate and unequal Mauritiuses. One for the tourists and one for those who actually live there. People from the island are friendly, but they do keep to their own counsel; there are no complaints, only smiles. One can see that underneath all the glamour of the different resorts, there’s plenty of work to be done and lots of opportunity to develop outside the hotels. Paradise shouldn’t be for the tourists only, it should be for the people who live on the island — but it so rarely is.

SPECIAL OFFERS: 

Riu Turquoise: 5 Nights from R23,150.00 per person sharing in a standard room.

Riu Palace: 5 Nights from R25,350 per person sharing in a Junior Suite.

Both specials includes return flights, airport-hotel transfers, all meals, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks and entertainment. Valid for travel from August 1 to October 31 2025.

To book, contact AfricaStay at 011-592-9000; e-mail vip@africastay.com or visit www.africastay.com / www.holidays.africastay.com

• Platt was a guest of AfricaStay and Riu Hotels & Resorts.